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AndyS View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 13:49
I think he means the "fangs" that hang down from the chassis rails.

There was an article on Bigcoupe.com about making a beam to lift the front of the car by them.

AndyS
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Brucey View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 13:49

Originally posted by Volvo240GLT Volvo240GLT wrote:

Brucey, I changed the fluid but didn't know how much to fill in?

Is the filter the metal thingy at the top of the reservoir? How does that filter anything? It looked clean anyway.

The bomb?

(Dave, The lashing eyes are right at the front, just behind the front spoiler. They are the most forward sections of the main frame rails.)

The filter is in the bottom of the reservoir.

The 'bomb' is a nitrogen charged sphere up close the bulkhead, under the hydraulic distribution block. It is basically a big spring, and its purpose is to give immediate assistance to brakes or steering, even when the engine isn't running. To test it; having run the engine (this is important), check the hydraulic fluid level (with the reservoir lid off). It should be low (but visible), and shouldn't rise (by itself) much in a few minutes (if it does, you have a bad valve most likely). Now work the brake pedal about ten times, observing the fluid level. It should go up. After about ten or fifteen applications of the brake pedal the fluid level won't come up any more.

 If the fluid reservoir level does not rise then it usually (but not always) means the 'bomb' is bad. You have enough fluid in the system when the level comes up to about 1" of the top after the bomb is discharged. You may need to repeat this procedure (also working the steering back and forth) a few times to get all the air out of the system.

Haynes manual #1948 (3 and 5 series 81-91) contains a lot of useful info for 6ers- the mechanicals and electricals are mostly shared with E28 5ers.

cheers

 

 


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ron. View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 15:25

Fuel lines are approx.£16.00 from BMW.Not an easy job to replace.They are held on with about 10 plastic clamps, a stainless

flanged plate and a 4mm pan- head screw which screws into a pressed into body internally threaded spigot.I''ve just replaced mine

and getting the screws out was a nightmare.Most of them sheared off

so I had to drill and re-tap all the holes.The brake pipes use the the same fixing system so have fun if you are replacing them. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 18:49
Hi Ron, any pics of your work on fuel lines etc?
My 635's.
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Volvo240GLT View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 05:08

Brucey, when you say subframe do you mean the crossmember at the front? And what is it at the rear?
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Henrik Morsing
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 08:42

Originally posted by Volvo240GLT Volvo240GLT wrote:

Well, if you give me a decent offer I'll sell. It's a very rare Motorsport edition and is overall in A2 condition.

 

So what are we talking here moneywise? Bearing in mind that it will need work to bring it upto scratch...

I've just come back from looking at another Motorsport edition car this morning which also needed work but he'd got it priced realistically so if the car I'm going to look at tomorrow is a dog, it has possibilities.

Your car also has Lotus leather, which I like



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 08:58

Does it? How do you know? And what is Lotus leather?

To get it to A1: 800 to fix rust, 400 to fix MOT failures and steering, Fix headlamp adjuster (20 pounds for a DIY job, 600 for a BMW job?).

Drivers side door handle is worn, don't know what that would cost. Humming sound from rear, anywhere between 20 pounds and some hundreds if the diff is worn (which I don't think it is).

New heater valve 70 pounds, front seat are worn in the tilt forward mechanism but you can see that.

Hmm... What more? I'd think 2000 could bring it to A1. It's in very good condition except for what I just mentioned.

To be honest I quite like the car and wasn't really planning on selling it right now. If you were to offer me 7000 I would take the money but... hmm...
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
'89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70
'89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport
'70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350

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'76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40
'87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 09:01

I've seen the pics somewhere on Big Coupe hence why I know it has Lotus white leather.

 

£7k for a car needing work is too much for me I'm afraid

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 10:20

This is the rust I'm having removed:

http://www.morsing.cc/billed.php?STED=BMW
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
'89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70
'89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport
'70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350

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'87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 11:43
Originally posted by Brucey Brucey wrote:

....Haynes manual #1948 (3 and 5 series 81-91) contains a lot of useful info for 6ers- the mechanicals and electricals are mostly shared with E28 5ers.

If you don't want to go out and spend money on the actual book, then you can always access the PDF version HERE.

The PDFs also cover the E34 Five.



Edited by Horsetan

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UKDaveJ View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 11:59
Not a live link anymore, reckon the plug got pulled!
My 635's.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 13:52

Originally posted by UKDaveJ UKDaveJ wrote:

Not a live link anymore, reckon the plug got pulled!

Funny. Works alright for me...... Or does your browser not allow it, Dave?


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-March-2006 at 14:05
It is now working for me, must have been a temporary glitch!

Come on England!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My 635's.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 05:25

Not very expensive? Is he (the parts guy at Stratstone) on crack?

Just picked up my center link and idler arm. 170 pounds! I can't even afford the brake lines now :-(

It's going to be a long time before this car gets back on the road!
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
'89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70
'89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport
'70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350

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'87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 14:48
I had new centre drag link, new arms etc & didn't come anywhere near that figure, but then again I bought lemforder stuff from GSF, rather than main dealer.
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86C View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 16:58
Nothing wrong with Lemforder. It's good quality kit
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 18:13

Originally posted by 86C 86C wrote:

Nothing wrong with Lemforder. It's good quality kit

 

...and in some cases, it was OEM quality....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-March-2006 at 08:09
Originally posted by 86C 86C wrote:

Nothing wrong with Lemforder. It's good quality kit


Yes I know, use it wherever I can, much cheaper than from BMW & in many cases was the oe supplier anyway.

I was referring to the fact that my bits cost loads less & that was even taking into account they were lemforder, not rubbish!!
My 635's.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-March-2006 at 21:14

postings on bcg a while back would seem to indicate that there are different lemforder qualities (some not good) or knock-offs out there now; need to check country of origin to have an idea if its any good or not.

cheers

 


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