MOT failures
Printed From: Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum
Category: Technical & Model Specific Forums
Forum Name: BMW 6 Series
Forum Discription: This forum will deal with any issues on the BMW 6 Series (E24, E63 & E64)
URL: http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=28291
Printed Date: 12-May-2024 at 09:09
Topic: MOT failures
Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Subject: MOT failures
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 03:51
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Ok, my dodgy '89 failed on eight counts and three advisories. Failures ----- 001 Both headlamps aim too high 002 Both rear brake discs excessively pitted 003 Centre ball joint has excessive play 004 Center silencer has major leak 005 Center exhaust system has a mounting that does not fully support the exhaust system 006 Both front to rear brake pipes excessively corroded 007 Nearside idler steering arm has relative movement at its fixings Advisory ----- 008 Nearside rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil 009 Rear silencer exhaust system has part of the system slightly deteriorated 010 Both front to rear fuel lines corroded Now, on 002; WHAT?!?!?? How's that a MOT failure? And why? And what could cause this? 003 Can this be adjusted or do I need a replacement part? 007, what's an idler steering arm? Also where do I get a new exhaust for it that doesn't cost 700? Thanks! ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Replies:
Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 05:49
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The surfaces of each disc is where the pads "grab" onto under braking. If the car is not in regular use, disc surfaces can corrode. If dirt or grit finds its way into the pitted sections, then these will be "grabbed" by the brake pads, and may lead to scoring and premature failure of the disc. Needs replacement, basically.
One of the links that regulates your steering.
You could invest at least that much and consider going stainless steel... -------------   
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Volvo240GLT wrote:Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 05:55
Considering that I only plan to keep it for a few years then I don't really want to spend that much. I just got a quote for fixing rust for 870 pounds! ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: phb10186
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 06:53
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My advice to you is to get at least 3 quotes for any bodywork, and you will be amazed at the variation. -------------  
1985 635 CSI with Style 134's 1998 Z3 2.8i |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 08:22
A 6 is for life, not just for Christmas.......!!
------------- My 635's.  
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 09:25
Variation in quality too I'll bet. I've used this guy before and he's good! A 6 is not just for christmas. I know. What I'm most concerned about with this car is the bill if something goes wrong. I've never had any car before with electronic fuel injection, abs, etc and it scares me a bit. About brake and fuel lines. Where and what is the best/price to go for? ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 11:29
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Brake parts aren't expensive, in fact they're pretty cheap. IIRC Euro Car Parts were doing rear discs for £25! If you want the car to still be respectable in a few years time you'll just have to bite the bullet & pay up. These weren't cheap cars in the first place & trying to run them on a shoestring just ruins them. ------------- AndyS Live each day as if it's your last - one day it will be. http://www.photostick.co.uk/view-933_BaurSig1.jpg" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 15:06
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Ah, does that mean one of us will have to take it over when you've tired of it? -------------
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Posted By: phb10186
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 15:52
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Volvo240GLT: Variation in quality is a fact of life; There isn't much in the way of a going rate for bodywork, other than the fact that when you roll up in an old BMW 6 series, they invariably double the figure! £870 would seem that you have some sereous welding to do, i.e both your sills are shot +/ - perforation. I will also need a welder later this year, so if you find someone good and reasonable, please let me know as I only live down the road from you (M1 J2). (Perhaps dsome pics of before / after if you have the time) I would also advise getting the welder to do some cavity undersealing at the time, this should protect the work that you have just paid for. Lastly; on the complexity issue - Yes, running these cars on a shoestring is a bad idea, as the car will deteriorate fast. They are complex cars, but the expensive bits are the bodywork and trim, and not so much the mechanicals (purely due to second hand availability) so from that point of view look after it. As far as the anxillary electric/ electromechanical systems go, if you think thats complicated, you should see whats being made nowadays! (Complexity to the nth degree, often needless: i-drive anyone?) I have been running my six for the last year or so, and I can assure you that the fuel consumption is THE VERY LEAST of the expense - and I can't stress that enough... It really is. There is tons of preventative maintenance to do that you simply dont have to consider with modern cars. If you don't really like it, then probably dont bother in my oppinion, but once you pop, you just cant stop! Sorry for my brutal honesty - at least I am an honest pescimist! -Ben P.S Almost MOT time for me too - fingers crossed. -------------
1985 635 CSI with Style 134's 1998 Z3 2.8i |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 16:30
Me too, MOT on the Highline due next week.........
------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: phb10186
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 16:34
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Dave - if your car has been featured in Total BMW and it doesnt pass, then what chance have the rest of us got??? Saying that, I think my emmissions are up the spout at the moment, smells very rich to me, even after a long run - hows yours? -------------
1985 635 CSI with Style 134's 1998 Z3 2.8i |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 17:18
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Ben, don't forget the MOT is getting trickier and trickier, or shall I say, more time is spent on cars now than used to be IMHO & E! I reckon my car is very good for its 200,000 miles, but little things can catch one out that you havn't spotted. MOT's are always a nervous time for me, like many others I guess. So far in the last 6 weeks my lads Renault 5 and wifes 520 both got pretty much straight through, the 520 needed new front pads & headlight adjustment, R5 will need new front disks for next yrs mot...... So fingers crossed the Highline doesn't let me down. ------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 17:51
I've got a friendly local MoT inspector who has seen the car every year since I acquired it..... -------------
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Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 14-March-2006 at 18:42
And it STILL passes........??!!!
------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 15-March-2006 at 13:10
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Amazing, but true -------------
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Posted By: Brucey
Date Posted: 15-March-2006 at 13:58
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IMHO you could fix the lot for about 140quid in parts; ball joints and brake discs- replace. brake pipes and fuel pipes- replace weld repair exhaust in short term. It sounds like they went hard on you at the MOT; in my experience they will do exactly this if you present a car with numerous obvious faults (ie rusty (even if it might be superficial) brake and fuel pipes, rusty exhaust, missing mountings, etc etc). If it had even looked as if you or someone, anyone had taken a look underneath and done some repair work to these items they might feel more comfortable about you driving around in a ~20 year old car that is certain to develop all kinds of issues from time to time. Sorry if that sounds brutal but to put a 6er in for the test with no prep work is highly optimistic to say the least.... cheers ------------- ~~~~~~~ Brucey ~~~~~~ |
Posted By: 86C
Date Posted: 15-March-2006 at 14:20
I'm game |
Posted By: phb10186
Date Posted: 15-March-2006 at 16:17
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astonishingly, my 635 passed an MOT after 10 years of standing around, and only being started about once a year!!! The only thing I had to replace were the tyres, which I did before hand. That was back in 2004. Although it did have the bare minimum of attention, like fluids and cleaning - and I did do various bodywork maintenance over that time - but absolutely nothing electric or mechanical. I kept the battery disconnected 99% of the time, and the bodywork stayed fairly good, only the dreaded wings and inner sills/ jacking points went a bit, but not that bad considering it was outside the whole time. In fact when my father bought the car in 1993 it had 128K, and now its got 133K (about 2K of which have been done this year). I remember my dad getting the whole thing undersealed as soon as he bought it, and I think that has been a contributing factor to it not going too bad. The paintwork has taken a hammering from all the UV over the years, and it could do with a respray (which it will get soonish). In fact the picture makes the paint look great, but its not that good - you can see where the front wing has been repaired just about, and for some reason my TRX's have become coated in a brown rubber type stuff?????????? It comes off if you scrape it with you nail, all 4 have gone that way - I initially thought it might be algae, but I cant see how they would survive there. -------------
1985 635 CSI with Style 134's 1998 Z3 2.8i |
Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 15-March-2006 at 17:10
Get yourself a bottle of Meguiar's tyre polish. It will keep the brown stuff at bay and your metrics will stay shiny. I might come over and wipe it on myself -------------
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Posted By: phb10186
Date Posted: 15-March-2006 at 17:15
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Ah the Shabbat tyre polishing service in action as it were.
I reckon that even the rubber compound that the TRX's are made of is rubbish - I have older tyres than that around, and they have stayed in good condition. -------------
1985 635 CSI with Style 134's 1998 Z3 2.8i |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 15-March-2006 at 18:16
You are spot on there Brucey! My Highline MOT due next week, so guess what I'm doing this weekend?! Wire brush (brake/fuel pipes), lots of waxoyl (brake/fuel pipes) on any rusty bits, new a/r bar front drop links, new a/r rear links, disconnect/replace brake pad warning sensor (pads fine, but light on.....NOT what you want at an MOT), thorough undercar inspection, thorough UKDaveJ pre-MOT inspection...... Fingers crossed it will pass, if it does fail, it will be something I've missed & mr MOT spots........ ------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 06:34
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Well, if you give me a decent offer I'll sell. It's a very rare Motorsport edition and is overall in A2 condition. Interior is in very good condition except for very minor places. 6 months ago there wasn't a spot of rust on it and the paint work is nice. Over winter four places started showing bubbles under the paint. One of them in a difficult spot and two needs to be cut out and welded.
I went to bowron two years ago to have quite a bit of accident damage fixed on my Volvo and he did a superb job. He's seems very honest and is interested in older cars and showed me some that he was restoring. Have seen a number of old classics parked there for work. He's not cheap but good! I have to be honest and say that out of the three cars I currently own the BMW is the one that interests me the least. I like the car but a big part of owning cars for me is working on them and servicing them and the BMW has proven to be a difficult partner. I wanted to replace the dist cap and rotor a few weeks ago and it took me an hour and a half to get the cap off and I had to give up on the rotor. I wasn't impressed. I'm not trying to run anything on a shoe string. I know where to spend when it matters and this car definately deserves quality parts and work. Unfortunately I'm not particularly wealthy and I've needed furniture for my new house for over a year now. I'm simply not willing to spend 700 on an exhaust. I bought new brake discs (48 pounds) from Bucks Auto Components yesterday and went down to BMW to order steering parts (they didn't know what an idler steering arm was). I'll get it sorted but I need to think hard about the exhaust. Pre-MOT? Yes, I did check the brake pads, discs and flexible hoses. Unfortunately I don't have a garage pit so getting underneith it can be a bit difficult. I looked into installing a pit (1800 pounds from Motormech(?)) and it won't be this year. Anyway, how do I put this car on jack stands? Other things that really need fixing (MOT didn't pick up on that): Sometimes when turning from straight to right a lot of whining can be heard and it gets very difficult to turn the wheel. Doesn't sound like the belt (but this will be changed soon) so could this be the pump? Any suggestions? 1989 is the latest car I've ever owned and I'll never go newer than that, trust me. I don't like having computers run my car for me. So, to sum up. Fixing is in progress, please feel free to comment on the powersteering problem. I need the MOT to drive to Bowron to have the rust fixed but it will happen! Thanks ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: Sohlman
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 07:01
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You can buy a cheap timex/bosal exhaust from German and sweedish or such like for the six and it will be around the £200 mark. However it will only last about 2-3 years. A genuine BMW exhaust will last around 15 years which is about the same realistically as a stainless system. A genuine system is around the £550 mark. You can get this from motormec. Also you can now buy a supersprint back box for about £250 made of mild steel that should last about 5 years and is a bit sportier. All the other bits needed are general wear and tear items. If money is really tight you could also look at buying a second hand exhaust for around the £150 mark. I think Fritz may even have a second hand stainless in stock altthought they will want to sell you one of their new stainless exhaust systems. -------------  Sunday 10th July Brooklands Sharkfest and Big Coupe Day. http://635csi.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ - Coupe Events
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Posted By: Shem
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 11:29
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[/QUOTE]
Thats strange, I just paid the same +/- £10 to have all the rust taken out of mine. In my case it was 1 front wing, 2 rear wheels arches (one quite bad), 1 section below taillight and a small bubble below number plate. He reckoned about £300 was strip down and reassemble. Do you think the have a look up table or something?? Lets see, BMW (sharp intake of breath), 635 (hissing snake breath and nodding head), > 15 years old (that will be the bottom of the page then) ------------- What fuel crisis? |
Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 11:53
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:( ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: Jimbob
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 12:06
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I just heard that my old girl has an MOT again! Failure list was quite short - Excessive corrosion on seat belt anchorage point and exhaust leaking. Now all sorted and back on the road. While it was in, also had some annoyance sorted - Fan Clutch and alternator bushes, new fan belt. I had both doors and their glass realigned. Not seen the Bill for any of this yet. Cosmetic rust is next on the list... ------------- And so says Jimbob. 1981 635csi 81k miles. Will be fixed, but not by me. |
Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 12:14
The rear arches are the nasty one. Walloth and Nesch used to do repair sections for them, but these have been unavailable for ages. My o/s/r arch needs doing, so it looks like a reconstruction job -------------
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 12:20
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I haven't got rust on any arches. I'll post pistures of the rust I'm having fixed tomorrow ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 13:34
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Rust? What's that? Smug Mode: ON ------------- AndyS Live each day as if it's your last - one day it will be. http://www.photostick.co.uk/view-933_BaurSig1.jpg" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 13:44
I persued Walloth & Nesch with great vigour as my emails below indicate...., now if LOTS of E24 owners also request these items, MAYBE, just maybe, they might reveal the info they were unwilling to give me, or perhaps they might consider offering them again....... "
"Thanks for your latest reply Alexander. ------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: m3Cecotto
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 14:14
Hmmmm......Sounds depressingly familiar, just this week they told me :- " Dear Mr. Beattie, we don´t have any delivery date. Best regards Albrecht Walloth Dipl. Ing. Albrecht Walloth u. Alexander Nesch GbR im Ohl 69 D-59757 Arnsberg Phone: +49 (0) 2932 - 700020 Fax: +49 (0) 2932 - 8 39 15 Email: info@wallothnesch.com <mailto:info@wallothnesch.com> Internet: www.wallothnesch.com <http://www.wallothnesch.com/> _____________________________________________________ Thank you. Will it be available soon? Best Regards, Boyd _____________________________________________________ Dear Mr. Beattie, sorry but the part you ask for is not available. Best regards Albrecht Walloth Dipl. Ing. Albrecht Walloth u. Alexander Nesch GbR im Ohl 69 D-59757 Arnsberg Phone: +49 (0) 2932 - 700020 Fax: +49 (0) 2932 - 8 39 15 Email: info@wallothnesch.com <mailto:info@wallothnesch.com> Internet: www.wallothnesch.com <http://www.wallothnesch.com/> _____________________________________________________ Morning, Are these:- 41000624008.JPG <http://www.wallothnesch.com/d/px/41000624008.JPG> Repair sheet for outer sill left or right side Available just now? If so, I'd like to order a pair please. Best Regards, Boyd _____________________________________________________ ------------- 1981 E23 735i 1989 E30 325i Motorsport Cabrio 1989 E24 635CSi Motorsport Edition http://www.bavarianretro.com" rel="nofollow - Bavarian Retro Cars |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 15:15
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Come on the rest of you 6 series guys, blitz W & N with requests for these rear arch repair sections........
------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: m3Cecotto
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 15:39
Sod the rear arch repair sections, blitz them with requests for the *sill* repair sections. ------------- 1981 E23 735i 1989 E30 325i Motorsport Cabrio 1989 E24 635CSi Motorsport Edition http://www.bavarianretro.com" rel="nofollow - Bavarian Retro Cars |
Posted By: Brucey
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 17:07
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To get the car in the air, jack it up under the front subframe, then use axle stands under the lashing eye brackets at the front. At the rear, jack under the diff and use axle stands under the rear subframe. Even with cheap (ie short) axle stands the car will be well up, and this way you won't stress or damage the finish on the jacking points. The PAS thing sounds like there is a minor fault. As first steps, check the belt, the 'bomb', the filter in the reservoir, and change the oil. Old/dirty oil can cause sticky valves. If you think 6ers are too full of computers you definitely don't want a more modern car. Unlike older Volvos etc, 6er maintenance isn't always easy or straightforward; the dizzy cap is a good case in point. By consolation you should maybe consider that it was likely the first time it had been disturbed from new... -hope your restest goes OK cheers
------------- ~~~~~~~ Brucey ~~~~~~ |
Posted By: Robmw
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 17:32
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Andy S, You will find out soon enough what rust is you keep going to sunday lunch in the snow !
Regards Rob ------------- Robert Born |
Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 16-March-2006 at 17:38
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Right, here goes....... -------------
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Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 05:14
Nah! Just spend some quality time scrubbing out the wheel arches followed by a good wash & dry. It's easier than replacing arches from the sound of it! I'd have thought Mobile Tradition would have been prepared to help. ------------- AndyS Live each day as if it's your last - one day it will be. http://www.photostick.co.uk/view-933_BaurSig1.jpg" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 05:19
I may be wrong but I thought it was a bad idea to jack under the diff as it wasn't designed to take the cars weight. It will over-stress the diff mounts & possibly damage the floor. It's ok on a live axle as the cars weight is still carried on the springs. ------------- AndyS Live each day as if it's your last - one day it will be. http://www.photostick.co.uk/view-933_BaurSig1.jpg" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 05:32
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Brucey, I changed the fluid but didn't know how much to fill in?
Is the filter the metal thingy at the top of the reservoir? How does that filter anything? It looked clean anyway. The bomb? ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 06:02
Sorrry Brucey, but what are the lashing eye brackets??!! Not where the bottom arms locate is it? ------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 13:49
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I think he means the "fangs" that hang down from the chassis rails. There was an article on Bigcoupe.com about making a beam to lift the front of the car by them. ------------- AndyS Live each day as if it's your last - one day it will be. http://www.photostick.co.uk/view-933_BaurSig1.jpg" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: Brucey
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 13:49
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(Dave, The lashing eyes are right at the front, just behind the front spoiler. They are the most forward sections of the main frame rails.) The filter is in the bottom of the reservoir. The 'bomb' is a nitrogen charged sphere up close the bulkhead, under the hydraulic distribution block. It is basically a big spring, and its purpose is to give immediate assistance to brakes or steering, even when the engine isn't running. To test it; having run the engine (this is important), check the hydraulic fluid level (with the reservoir lid off). It should be low (but visible), and shouldn't rise (by itself) much in a few minutes (if it does, you have a bad valve most likely). Now work the brake pedal about ten times, observing the fluid level. It should go up. After about ten or fifteen applications of the brake pedal the fluid level won't come up any more. If the fluid reservoir level does not rise then it usually (but not always) means the 'bomb' is bad. You have enough fluid in the system when the level comes up to about 1" of the top after the bomb is discharged. You may need to repeat this procedure (also working the steering back and forth) a few times to get all the air out of the system. Haynes manual #1948 (3 and 5 series 81-91) contains a lot of useful info for 6ers- the mechanicals and electricals are mostly shared with E28 5ers. cheers
------------- ~~~~~~~ Brucey ~~~~~~ |
Posted By: ron.
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 15:25
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Fuel lines are approx.£16.00 from BMW.Not an easy job to replace.They are held on with about 10 plastic clamps, a stainless flanged plate and a 4mm pan- head screw which screws into a pressed into body internally threaded spigot.I''ve just replaced mine and getting the screws out was a nightmare.Most of them sheared off so I had to drill and re-tap all the holes.The brake pipes use the the same fixing system so have fun if you are replacing them. ------------- MILI 635 |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 17-March-2006 at 18:49
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Hi Ron, any pics of your work on fuel lines etc?
------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 05:08
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Brucey, when you say subframe do you mean the crossmember at the front? And what is it at the rear? ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: 86C
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 08:42
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So what are we talking here moneywise? Bearing in mind that it will need work to bring it upto scratch... I've just come back from looking at another Motorsport edition car this morning which also needed work but he'd got it priced realistically so if the car I'm going to look at tomorrow is a dog, it has possibilities. Your car also has Lotus leather, which I like |
Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 08:58
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Does it? How do you know? And what is Lotus leather? To get it to A1: 800 to fix rust, 400 to fix MOT failures and steering, Fix headlamp adjuster (20 pounds for a DIY job, 600 for a BMW job?). Drivers side door handle is worn, don't know what that would cost. Humming sound from rear, anywhere between 20 pounds and some hundreds if the diff is worn (which I don't think it is). New heater valve 70 pounds, front seat are worn in the tilt forward mechanism but you can see that. Hmm... What more? I'd think 2000 could bring it to A1. It's in very good condition except for what I just mentioned. To be honest I quite like the car and wasn't really planning on selling it right now. If you were to offer me 7000 I would take the money but... hmm... ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: 86C
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 09:01
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I've seen the pics somewhere on Big Coupe hence why I know it has Lotus white leather.
£7k for a car needing work is too much for me I'm afraid |
Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 10:20
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This is the rust I'm having removed: http://www.morsing.cc/billed.php?STED=BMW ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 11:43
If you don't want to go out and spend money on the actual book, then you can always http://hosting.data.bg/bmw/BMW/E-Books/Haynes%20Service%20Manual%20-%20E30%20-%20E28%20-%20E34 - access the PDF version HERE . The PDFs also cover the E34 Five. -------------
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Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 11:59
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Not a live link anymore, reckon the plug got pulled!
------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 13:52
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Funny. Works alright for me...... Or does your browser not allow it, Dave? -------------
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Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 18-March-2006 at 14:05
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It is now working for me, must have been a temporary glitch! Come on England!!!!!!!!!!!!!  ------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 21-March-2006 at 05:25
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Not very expensive? Is he (the parts guy at Stratstone) on crack? Just picked up my center link and idler arm. 170 pounds! I can't even afford the brake lines now :-( It's going to be a long time before this car gets back on the road! ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 21-March-2006 at 14:48
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I had new centre drag link, new arms etc & didn't come anywhere near that figure, but then again I bought lemforder stuff from GSF, rather than main dealer.
------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: 86C
Date Posted: 21-March-2006 at 16:58
Nothing wrong with Lemforder. It's good quality kit
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Posted By: Horsetan
Date Posted: 21-March-2006 at 18:13
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...and in some cases, it was OEM quality.... -------------
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Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 22-March-2006 at 08:09
Yes I know, use it wherever I can, much cheaper than from BMW & in many cases was the oe supplier anyway. I was referring to the fact that my bits cost loads less & that was even taking into account they were lemforder, not rubbish!! ------------- My 635's.
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Posted By: Brucey
Date Posted: 22-March-2006 at 21:14
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postings on bcg a while back would seem to indicate that there are different lemforder qualities (some not good) or knock-offs out there now; need to check country of origin to have an idea if its any good or not. cheers
------------- ~~~~~~~ Brucey ~~~~~~ |