Another Sick Six

I had a similar problem with my six not so long ago. Replaced just about everything and most of it was not needed. I would suspect it is either the fuel pump relays of which there are two you will need. One has 4 pin the other has 5. Or the pulse  genrators which are sensors that mount onto the side of the engine and gearbox bell housing. These feed the ecu with information about temperature revs etc. If these don't fix it then cost implications go up. You will then have to look at idle control valves, airflow meters and ECU's.

• Fule Pump relays aprox £5-10 although BMW will charge you £40
• Pulse generators approx £35 each 2 needed
• Air flow meter £50-75 s/h, £130 reconditiones, £200 new.
• ECU approx £150 s/h and £300+ new

I would have a chat with munich legends who sorted my car out and will be able to supply you with those various parts, Give Barney a tinckle on 07825 740456

Thanks for the info guys, I will have a look at the connections this coming weekend and keep you informed.

Shame about Munich Legends, I only moved from East Grinstead area last year. Still, thank heavens for the telephone.

Mine would run fine untill it warmed up after about 20 mins then the power would cut if i tried to apply any throttle and it would not tickover. It would just die, and while in the process of dieing it would backfire and send 2 feet flames out of the exhaust. The thing is it was not completely consistant and i got recovered on two journeys. I did not make a third and spent 6 weeks fidling around before it was well enough to get it to a specialist.

I would recomend making sure you are well and truley AA'd up. Book it in to a specialist, set out early and hope you get there. If not phone the AA and get a tow there. Let the specialist know and leave it with them. Then you can go back when it is fixed and enjoy your baby without any fafing about.

Spoke to a good friend of mine who is a mechanic and explained all the problems to him and he has suggested replacing the alternator. Should have one by the weekend and as long as I work out how to change it, I may be back on the road soon. (Thankfully!)

Andyboy wrote: If it starts and runs, it won't be either of the relays. The four pin one is for the fuel pump, the other for the DME (injectors etc). The two sensors on the bellhousing are for the crank position (TDC) and engine speed. If any of these are faulty, it just will not run. Air flow meter is possible, as is idle control valve but don't be tempted by a recon air flow meter as they're rubbish (Bosch excepted).

 

I hate to correct you on this, but one of my two sensors on the bellhousing went on my car and it would still run, that was untill it got hot, then it would intermitantly work giving the ecu false readings resulting in a car that was running so rich you could not get a CO2 reading. I am also told that a faulty relay in some circumstances can work intermitantly too.

 

On fixing your car up it might be worth giving Frits bits a call as they really understand the six. Call them on 01823 669425. I have my car booked in with them to have some uprated brakes fitted in Feb

This reminds me of as problem I had with an old 735i recently, an old Y reg heap. It ran fine and drove for about 15 miles before cutting out intermittently - by that I mean it was jerking badly as if the ignition key was being turned off and back on again. This was the five pin DME relay, but they either work or they don't. The car won't run badly if it's faulty, it'll either run perfectly or not at all.
The only way it could be one of the flywheel sensors is if it's dirt on the timing sensor (I think it's the one farthest from the engine). Dirt builds up on the ends in much the same way as crap builds up on ABS sensors. If the engine runs after a fashion, it won't be the timing sensor that's failed completely. Excessive dirt buid up might cause the ECU to become confused and intermttently advance or retard the timing causing backfires. They are screwed into the bellhousing side by side and held in by allen bolts. Also check the connections where they plug into the engine loom in the starter motor area.
From what I remember, Highlines used a different (E34) system where one sensor on the crank front pulley measured both TDC and engine speed - a much more reliable system.
Owning a 6 Series is like repeatedly slamming a door on your hand only more painful. I've been there and done it. Don't you just love old cars?

Well I hope that cures it! Let us know - or the Samaritans........

had that on mine, something believe it or not to do with electrics, I'll check it out and let you know, in the meantime, how ya doing for petrol, cannot get any LRP all gone down south any tips

Indicator prime suspect has to be relay followed by a bad earth, try changing the bulbs as well.

bigfub wrote: Vern, This is where I have my stupid head on but which is the indicator relay? I can rebuild a PC blindfolded but I still need help with car electrics. Cheers!

Indicator relay is located somewhere in the steering column....

More work with a screwdriver in a confined space. Enjoy. Or hire a jockey who's also a dab hand at electrics....