Clarifying an M3?

UWE, i didnt shortent the struts, there was no need, and this would have just complicated things. in the pics you will see a professionally done set, but they didnt have the holes for abs sensors, so if anyones interested!!!!

good info on the evo3, thought it was just part added after part i.e. your "evo 5" lol.

rear springs im using the 35mm lower psx spax type that came with the kit.  The car isnt an all out race machine, its gotta be a daily/ weekend driver as well, so compromises have been made, but very few.

Judge,

I pretty much totally agree with what your saying, just before the project i had a similar opinion, but money wise bolting in the 3.5 was the cheapest power upgrade i could come across (it was already in an e30 prior to me getting it). in the end this proved no extra help, as the engine mounts were not up to spec, and i wanted the engine further back anyway.

i can remember my main concern being engine mounts back then, as my 2.5 lump was very quick, even compared to the 325 sport, and i was forever replacing engine mounts.

I have helped or rather "given my opinion" on a few subjects on here, particularly with regard to what wheels you can fit on the e30, and doing a manual gearbox conversion for the 2.5 (my auto box went that the car came with, and i decided to go manual).

I now know alot about the mechanics of the cars, and generally everyone i know asks me about upgrades etc just as friends.

Its highly likley i'll be adding a supercharger to my fathers z3 2.8, or he may just go zm3 not sure yet. even so. I had a look at the chassis and were going to try some shock and spring combinations from my e30, as my parts were practically new when they came off, and changing a set of rear springs is only a couple of hours job.

and then there's my little brothers mini etc etc the list goes on, and the sense of achievement you get from doing this is so good.

Your point on max power, i can remember about 6 years ago i used to buy that mag, then overnight it was full of fibreglass civic's that look like bm's and fiesta vans with 20k spent but still an oil leaking 1.0 engine. I hate tack, and have an exceptionally biased opinion. still, seeing these cars in real life provides me with a great chuckle, and they may not appreciate what i'm doing.

One thing i have come to learn is that so many "aftermarket" parts are either exceptionally poor quality (m3 mirrors anyone) or drastically overpriced.

its a minefiled, and getting the right balance of this on one car is very difficult. its also rarly as easy as "bolt on".

I guess your top mounts are solid? This will give you 50mm less height to start with. I wanted to keep the rubber mounts and couldn't get the car back to the ride height it was sitting on the non height adjustable springs.
You can't just weld the bottom platform lower and lower,
there is a limit to it.
A) the platform will not clear the tyre (unless silly ET's are used)
B) you will run out of shock travel.
I agree that things will get complicated when you shorten the strut (--> what inserts???)
Maybe we meet up somewhere in the future and I can have a closer look to your conversion. (Gaydon??)
here a pic:




Edited by UweM3

UweM3 wrote: I guess your top mounts are solid? This will give you 50mm less height to start with. I wanted to keep the rubber mounts and couldn't get the car back to the ride height it was sitting on the non height adjustable springs. You can't just weld the bottom platform lower and lower, there is a limit to it. A) the platform will not clear the tyre (unless silly ET's are used) B) you will run out of shock travel. I agree that things will get complicated when you shorten the strut (--> what inserts???) Maybe we meet up somewhere in the future and I can have a closer look to your conversion. (Gaydon??) here a pic:

just had a thought, this may be the one time not having an m3 benefits. i bet the m3 hub has a larger offset built into it, effectivley making the strut closer to the wheel for the same track width of the car. i.e. 325 narow track, but mine has been spaced out to m3. thus leaving the actual strut in the original "narrow" 325 configuration, and putting the wheel further away.

Some intresting things going on here.

Uwe, this would make a difference to the threaded section of the strut
housing... no ARB link on the strut to get in the way

Funny, i was looking at your struts earlier, and i noticed they looked alot leaner, but had the arb on them. so does this mean that peope with m3 suspension have an issue with their coilovers, because it clearly isnt an issue with 325 parts. wouldn't it be possible to resolve the issue by using 325 struts with m3 hubs?

Ok, so i take it the control arms are the same though, as you always hear of people looking for the aluminium type if possible.

Yes, the bars on the front i have shown in the picture have about a 6mm wall thickness. They are ridiculously stiff, i cannot make them twist or deform in any way.

 

thanks floody. I went about 20 miles to Maccess last night to get the final primer before spraying this saturday and found tuesday is the only evening the place closes early!!!! ggrr! not good, trying again tonight!

HI ron,

well, its looking firm for a respray this weekend,

Leathers are taking ages, but should be done by then and fitting them is no issue.

I basically expect the car to be nearing "visual" completion by then, but i doubt the engine will be in. I get home latish on most evenings, and only have the weekends to work on it of which sunday is useless after 2 due to family arrangements etc.

Im getting there as fast as possilble, and will be very very dissaponted if i miss much of this summer.

Are you hinting at showing the car, not sure if it would be worth trailering it there with no engine?

The car isn't going to be a show car, as in its finish, its finished to a very good standard, but as you probably know the finishing was done by me (unqualified!), so close examination will reveal this.

Let me know if you have anything in mind.

 

Impressive job Craig , lots of interesting points raised .

Look forward to seeing the finished car !

cheers

Andy

Some of the lad's may have a set going, as a lot take them out to put air intakes in for the front brakes.

If not you will need the light's, frame's and bracket's, the wireing should be insitue so I recon if you want to do it you will be looking at £70 to £90 all done.

You can still get all the part's, if you want the part nos. give me a shout