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Volvo240GLT View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: MOT failures
    Posted: 14-March-2006 at 03:51

Ok, my dodgy '89 failed on eight counts and three advisories.

Failures
-----
001 Both headlamps aim too high

002 Both rear brake discs excessively pitted

003 Centre ball joint has excessive play

004 Center silencer has major leak

005 Center exhaust system has a mounting that does not fully support the
exhaust system

006 Both front to rear brake pipes excessively corroded

007 Nearside idler steering arm has relative movement at its fixings


Advisory
-----
008 Nearside rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil

009 Rear silencer exhaust system has part of the system slightly deteriorated

010 Both front to rear fuel lines corroded



Now, on 002; WHAT?!?!??
How's that a MOT failure? And why? And what could cause this?

003 Can this be adjusted or do I need a replacement part?

007, what's an idler steering arm?

Also where do I get a new exhaust for it that doesn't cost 700?

Thanks!
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
'89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70
'89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport
'70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350

Previous cars
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'76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40
'87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 05:49

Originally posted by Volvo240GLT Volvo240GLT wrote:


Ok, my dodgy '89 failed on eight counts and three advisories.

Failures
-----
....002 Both rear brake discs excessively pitted
WHAT?!?!??
How's that a MOT failure? And why? And what could cause this?

The surfaces of each disc is where the pads "grab" onto under braking. If the car is not in regular use, disc surfaces can corrode. If dirt or grit finds its way into the pitted sections, then these will be "grabbed" by the brake pads, and may lead to scoring and premature failure of the disc.

Needs replacement, basically.

Quote 003 Centre ball joint has excessive play....Can this be adjusted or do I need a replacement part? 


Replacement part again.

Quote 007 Nearside idler steering arm has relative movement at its fixings .... what's an idler steering arm?

One of the links that regulates your steering.

 

Quote ...Also where do I get a new exhaust for it that doesn't cost 700?

You could invest at least that much and consider going stainless steel...


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 05:55
Originally posted by Horsetan Horsetan wrote:


Quote 007 Nearside idler steering arm has relative movement at its fixings .... what's an idler steering arm?


One of the links that regulates your steering.

So a track rod then?

Quote ...Also where do I get a new exhaust for it that doesn't cost 700?


You could invest at least that much and consider going stainless steel...



Considering that I only plan to keep it for a few years then I don't really want to spend that much.

I just got a quote for fixing rust for 870 pounds!
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
'89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70
'89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport
'70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350

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'87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 06:53
My advice to you is to get at least 3 quotes for any bodywork, and you will be amazed at the variation.

1985 635 CSI with Style 134's
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 08:22
A 6 is for life, not just for Christmas.......!!
My 635's.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 09:25
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

My advice to you is to get at least 3 quotes for any bodywork, and you will be amazed at the variation.


Variation in quality too I'll bet. I've used this guy before and he's good!

A 6 is not just for christmas. I know. What I'm most concerned about with this car is the bill if something goes wrong. I've never had any car before with electronic fuel injection, abs, etc and it scares me a bit.

About brake and fuel lines. Where and what is the best/price to go for?
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
'89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70
'89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport
'70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350

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'87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 11:29
Brake parts aren't expensive, in fact they're pretty cheap. IIRC Euro Car Parts were doing rear discs for £25!

If you want the car to still be respectable in a few years time you'll just have to bite the bullet & pay up. These weren't cheap cars in the first place & trying to run them on a shoestring just ruins them.

AndyS
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 15:06

Originally posted by Volvo240GLT Volvo240GLT wrote:

...Considering that I only plan to keep it for a few years then I don't really want to spend that much.

Ah, does that mean one of us will have to take it over when you've tired of it?


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 15:52

Volvo240GLT:

Variation in quality is a fact of life; There isn't much in the way of a going rate for bodywork, other than the fact that when you roll up in an old BMW 6 series, they invariably double the figure!

£870 would seem that you have some sereous welding to do, i.e both your sills are shot +/ - perforation.

I will also need a welder later this year, so if you find someone good and reasonable, please let me know as I only live down the road from you (M1 J2). (Perhaps dsome pics of before / after if you have the time)

I would also advise getting the welder to do some cavity undersealing at the time, this should protect the work that you have just paid for.

Lastly; on the complexity issue - Yes, running these cars on a shoestring is a bad idea, as the car will deteriorate fast. They are complex cars, but the expensive bits are the bodywork and trim, and not so much the mechanicals (purely due to second hand availability) so from that point of view look after it. As far as the anxillary electric/ electromechanical systems go, if you think thats complicated, you should see whats being made nowadays! (Complexity to the nth degree, often needless: i-drive anyone?)

I have been running my six for the last year or so, and I can assure you that the fuel consumption is THE VERY LEAST of the expense - and I can't stress that enough... It really is. There is tons of preventative maintenance to do that you simply dont have to consider with modern cars. If you don't really like it, then probably dont bother in my oppinion, but once you pop, you just cant stop!

Sorry for my brutal honesty - at least I am an honest pescimist!

-Ben

P.S Almost MOT time for me too - fingers crossed.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 16:30
Me too, MOT on the Highline due next week.........
My 635's.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 16:34

Dave - if your car has been featured in Total BMW and it doesnt pass, then what chance have the rest of us got???

Saying that, I think my emmissions are up the spout at the moment, smells very rich to me, even after a long run - hows yours?


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 17:18
Ben, don't forget the MOT is getting trickier and trickier, or shall I say, more time is spent on cars now than used to be IMHO & E!

I reckon my car is very good for its 200,000 miles, but little things can catch one out that you havn't spotted.

MOT's are always a nervous time for me, like many others I guess.
So far in the last 6 weeks my lads Renault 5 and wifes 520 both got pretty much straight through, the 520 needed new front pads & headlight adjustment, R5 will need new front disks for next yrs mot......

So fingers crossed the Highline doesn't let me down.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 17:51
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

Dave - if your car has been featured in Total BMW and it doesnt pass, then what chance have the rest of us got???

I've got a friendly local MoT inspector who has seen the car every year since I acquired it.....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2006 at 18:42
And it STILL passes........??!!!
My 635's.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-March-2006 at 13:10

Originally posted by UKDaveJ UKDaveJ wrote:

And it STILL passes........??!!!

 

Amazing, but true


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-March-2006 at 13:58

IMHO you could fix the lot for about 140quid in parts;

ball joints and brake discs- replace.

brake pipes and fuel pipes- replace

weld repair exhaust in short term.

It sounds like they went hard on you at the MOT; in my experience they will do exactly this if you present a car with numerous obvious faults (ie rusty (even if it might be superficial) brake and fuel pipes, rusty exhaust, missing mountings, etc etc). If it had even looked as if you or someone, anyone had taken a look underneath and done some repair work to these items they might feel more comfortable about you driving around in a ~20 year old car that is certain to develop all kinds of issues from time to time.

Sorry if that sounds brutal but to put a 6er in for the test with no prep work is highly optimistic to say the least....

cheers


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-March-2006 at 14:20
Originally posted by Horsetan Horsetan wrote:

Ah, does that mean one of us will have to take it over when you've tired of it?

 

I'm game

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-March-2006 at 16:17

astonishingly, my 635 passed an MOT after 10 years of standing around, and only being started about once a year!!!

The only thing I had to replace were the tyres, which I did before hand.

That was back in 2004. Although it did have the bare minimum of attention, like fluids and cleaning - and I did do various bodywork maintenance over that time - but absolutely nothing electric or mechanical.

I kept the battery disconnected 99% of the time, and the bodywork stayed fairly good, only the dreaded wings and inner sills/ jacking points went a bit, but not that bad considering it was outside the whole time.

In fact when my father bought the car in 1993 it had 128K, and now its got 133K (about 2K of which have been done this year).

I remember my dad getting the whole thing undersealed as soon as he bought it, and I think that has been a contributing factor to it not going too bad.

The paintwork has taken a hammering from all the UV over the years, and it could do with a respray (which it will get soonish).

In fact the picture makes the paint look great, but its not that good - you can see where the front wing has been repaired just about, and for some reason my TRX's have become coated in a brown rubber type stuff?????????? It comes off if you scrape it with you nail, all 4 have gone that way - I initially thought it might be algae, but I cant see how they would survive there.



Edited by phb10186

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-March-2006 at 17:10
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

....for some reason my TRX's have become coated in a brown rubber type stuff?????????? It comes off if you scrape it with your nail, all 4 have gone that way - I initially thought it might be algae, but I cant see how they would survive there.

Get yourself a bottle of Meguiar's tyre polish. It will keep the brown stuff at bay and your metrics will stay shiny. I might come over and wipe it on myself


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-March-2006 at 17:15

Ah the Shabbat tyre polishing service in action as it were.

 

I reckon that even the rubber compound that the TRX's are made of is rubbish - I have older tyres than that around, and they have stayed in good condition.



Edited by phb10186

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