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UKDaveJ View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-March-2006 at 18:16
Originally posted by Brucey Brucey wrote:

IMHO you could fix the lot for about 140quid in parts;

ball joints and brake discs- replace.

brake pipes and fuel pipes- replace

weld repair exhaust in short term.

It sounds like they went hard on you at the MOT; in my experience they will do exactly this if you present a car with numerous obvious faults (ie rusty (even if it might be superficial) brake and fuel pipes, rusty exhaust, missing mountings, etc etc). If it had even looked as if you or someone, anyone had taken a look underneath and done some repair work to these items they might feel more comfortable about you driving around in a ~20 year old car that is certain to develop all kinds of issues from time to time.

Sorry if that sounds brutal but to put a 6er in for the test with no prep work is highly optimistic to say the least....

cheers



You are spot on there Brucey!

My Highline MOT due next week, so guess what I'm doing this weekend?!
Wire brush (brake/fuel pipes), lots of waxoyl (brake/fuel pipes) on any rusty bits, new a/r bar front drop links, new a/r rear links, disconnect/replace brake pad warning sensor (pads fine, but light on.....NOT what you want at an MOT), thorough undercar inspection, thorough UKDaveJ pre-MOT inspection......

Fingers crossed it will pass, if it does fail, it will be something I've missed & mr MOT spots........
My 635's.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 06:34
Well, if you give me a decent offer I'll sell. It's a very rare Motorsport edition and is overall in A2 condition. Interior is in very good condition except for very minor places. 6 months ago there wasn't a spot of rust on it and the paint work is nice. Over winter four places started showing bubbles under the paint. One of them in a difficult spot and two needs to be cut out and welded.

I went to bowron two years ago to have quite a bit of accident damage fixed on my Volvo and he did a superb job. He's seems very honest and is interested in older cars and showed me some that he was restoring. Have seen a number of old classics parked there for work. He's not cheap but good!

I have to be honest and say that out of the three cars I currently own the BMW is the one that interests me the least. I like the car but a big part of owning cars for me is working on them and servicing them and the BMW has proven to be a difficult partner. I wanted to replace the dist cap and rotor a few weeks ago and it took me an hour and a half to get the cap off and I had to give up on the rotor. I wasn't impressed.

I'm not trying to run anything on a shoe string. I know where to spend when it matters and this car definately deserves quality parts and work. Unfortunately I'm not particularly wealthy and I've needed furniture for my new house for over a year now. I'm simply not willing to spend 700 on an exhaust.

I bought new brake discs (48 pounds) from Bucks Auto Components yesterday and went down to BMW to order steering parts (they didn't know what an idler steering arm was). I'll get it sorted but I need to think hard about the exhaust.

Pre-MOT? Yes, I did check the brake pads, discs and flexible hoses. Unfortunately I don't have a garage pit so getting underneith it can be a bit difficult. I looked into installing a pit (1800 pounds from Motormech(?)) and it won't be this year. Anyway, how do I put this car on jack stands?

Other things that really need fixing (MOT didn't pick up on that): Sometimes when turning from straight to right a lot of whining can be heard and it gets very difficult to turn the wheel. Doesn't sound like the belt (but this will be changed soon) so could this be the pump? Any suggestions?

1989 is the latest car I've ever owned and I'll never go newer than that, trust me. I don't like having computers run my car for me.

So, to sum up. Fixing is in progress, please feel free to comment on the powersteering problem. I need the MOT to drive to Bowron to have the rust fixed but it will happen!

Thanks


Edited by Volvo240GLT
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 07:01

You can buy a cheap timex/bosal exhaust from German and sweedish or such like for the six and it will be around the £200 mark. However it will only last about 2-3 years. A genuine BMW exhaust will last around 15 years which is about the same realistically as a stainless system. A genuine system is around the £550 mark. You can get this from motormec. Also you can now buy a supersprint back box for about £250 made of mild steel that should last about 5 years and is a bit sportier.

All the other bits needed are general wear and tear items. If money is really tight you could also look at buying a second hand exhaust for around the £150 mark. I think Fritz may even have a second hand stainless in stock altthought they will want to sell you one of their new stainless exhaust systems.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 11:29

 

[/QUOTE]

I just got a quote for fixing rust for 870 pounds!
[/QUOTE]

 

Thats strange, I just paid the same +/- £10  to have all the rust taken out of mine.

In my case it was 1 front wing, 2 rear wheels arches (one quite bad), 1 section below taillight and a small bubble below number plate. He reckoned about £300 was strip down and reassemble.

Do you think the have a look up table or something?? Lets see, BMW (sharp intake of breath), 635 (hissing snake breath and nodding head), > 15 years old (that will be the bottom of the page then)

What fuel crisis?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 11:53

:(
Cheers

Henrik Morsing
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 12:06

I just heard that my old girl has an MOT again!

Failure list was quite short - Excessive corrosion on seat belt anchorage point and exhaust leaking.

Now all sorted and back on the road.

While it was in, also had some annoyance sorted - Fan Clutch and alternator bushes, new fan belt. I had both doors and their glass realigned. Not seen the Bill for any of this yet.

Cosmetic rust is next on the list...

And so says Jimbob.
1981 635csi 81k miles. Will be fixed, but not by me.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 12:14
Originally posted by Shem Shem wrote:

Quote

I just got a quote for fixing rust for 870 pounds!

......In my case it was 1 front wing, 2 rear wheels arches (one quite bad)...

The rear arches are the nasty one. Walloth and Nesch used to do repair sections for them, but these have been unavailable for ages.

My o/s/r arch needs doing, so it looks like a reconstruction job


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 12:20

I haven't got rust on any arches.

I'll post pistures of the rust I'm having fixed tomorrow

Cheers

Henrik Morsing
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 13:34
Rust?

What's that?

Smug Mode: ON

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 13:44
Originally posted by Horsetan Horsetan wrote:

The rear arches are the nasty one. Walloth and Nesch used to do repair sections for them, but these have been unavailable for ages.
My o/s/r arch needs doing, so it looks like a reconstruction job


I persued Walloth & Nesch with great vigour as my emails below indicate...., now if LOTS of E24 owners also request these items, MAYBE, just maybe, they might reveal the info they were unwilling to give me, or perhaps they might consider offering them again.......

"
Subject: Re: AW: Re: AW: Rear wheelarch repair sections BMW 635csi
To:"Walloth u. Nesch GbR" <info@wallothnesch.com>
"Thanks for your latest reply Alexander.

Do I gather from your reply that you own the tools
that made these arches?
If you are not prepared to make any again, how much
would you be willing to sell the forming tools for?

If you had enough orders, would you be willing to
produce these again? There is definitely demand!

Why are you not prepared to make/supply these any
more?

Thank you,

David


--- "Walloth u. Nesch GbR" <info@wallothnesch.com>
wrote:

> Dear Mr. Jerromes,
>
>
> sorry we can´t produce the parts again.
>
> Best regards
> Alexander Nesch
> Dipl. Ing. Albrecht Walloth u. Alexander Nesch GbR
> Im Ohl 69
> D-59757 Arnsberg
> Phone: +49 (0) 2932 - 700020
> Fax: +49 (0) 2932 - 8 39 15
> Email: info@wallothnesch.com
> <mailto:info@wallothnesch.com>
> Internet: www.wallothnesch.com
> <http://www.wallothnesch.com>
>
>
> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: D JERROMES [mailto:jerromes@btopenworld.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 28. Juni 2005 17:44
> An: info@wallothnesch.com
> Betreff: Fwd: Re: AW: Rear wheelarch repair sections
> BMW 635csi
>
>
> Dear Alexander,
>
> I'm not sure if you received this email.
> Thanks,
>
> David
>
>
> --- D JERROMES <jerromes@btopenworld.com> wrote:
>
> > Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 10:26:41 +0100 (BST)
> > From: D JERROMES <jerromes@btopenworld.com>
> > Subject: Re: AW: Rear wheelarch repair sections
> BMW
> > 635csi
> > To: "Walloth u. Nesch GbR" <info@wallothnesch.com>
> >
> > Dear Alexander,
> >
> > Thank you for your reply.
> >
> > This is bad news for many of us trying to keep BMW
> > E24's going, in the UK we have problems with
> > road-salt
> > which has a habit of eating rear arches!
> >
> > As you used to supply these would you not consider
> > doing a batch run for E24 owners in the UK?
> > What minimum quantities would you need to run?
> > Do W&N own the tools that produced these arches?
> >
> > If you were buying them from another supplier,
> could
> > you please put me in touch with them as I need 2
> > sets
> > of arches just for my cars & I know other owners
> who
> > also need sets.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> > --- "Walloth u. Nesch GbR" <info@wallothnesch.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Dear Mr. Jerromes,
> > >
> > > sorry but the part you ask for is not available.
> > >
> > >
> > > Best regards
> > > Alexander Nesch
> > > Dipl. Ing. Albrecht Walloth u. Alexander Nesch
> GbR
> > > im Ohl 69
> > > D-59757 Arnsberg
> > > Phone: +49 (0) 2932 - 700020
> > > Fax: +49 (0) 2932 - 8 39 15
> > > Email: info@wallothnesch.com
> > > Internet: www.wallothnesch.com
> > > -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> > > Von: David & Andrea Jerromes
> > > [mailto:jerromes@btinternet.com]
> > > Gesendet: Montag, 27. Juni 2005 10:47
> > > An: info@wallothnesch.com
> > > Betreff: Fw: Rear wheelarch repair sections
> BMW
> > > 635csi
> > > Wichtigkeit: Hoch
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I don't know whether you received my email, so
> I
> > > have forwarded it just in
> > > case.
> > >
> > > It is the rear off-side (drivers side RHD car,
> > > passenger side LHD car)
> > > wheel arch that requires replacement.
> > > My bodyshop have confirmed that they need a
> > repair
> > > section for this arch &
> > > I know you used to have them on your website,
> but
> > > they are not listed now.
> > > Can you still supply?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > David Jerromes
> > > (UK)
> > > 07977 057 113
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: David & Andrea Jerromes
> > > To: info@wallothnesch.com
> > > Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 3:37 PM
> > > Subject: Rear wheelarch repair sections BMW
> > 635csi
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi
> > >
> > > Do you still stock the rear wheel-arch repair
> > > sections for the BMW 635csi?
> > > My car is in the bodyshop & I'm told I need a
> new
> > > rear arch, I forget which
> > > side. If you cannot supply, could you please
> > advise
> > > where else I could try?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > David"


Edited by UKDaveJ
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 14:14
Originally posted by UKDaveJ UKDaveJ wrote:



> > > Dear Mr. Jerromes,
> > >
> > > sorry but the part you ask for is not available.
> > >
> > >
> > > Best regards
> > > Alexander Nesch
> > > Dipl. Ing. Albrecht Walloth u. Alexander Nesch
> GbR
> > > im Ohl 69
> > > D-59757 Arnsberg
> > > Phone: +49 (0) 2932 - 700020
> > > Fax: +49 (0) 2932 - 8 39 15
> > > Email: info@wallothnesch.com
> > > Internet: www.wallothnesch.com


Hmmmm......Sounds depressingly familiar, just this week they told me :-

"
Dear Mr. Beattie,

we don´t have any delivery date.


Best regards

Albrecht Walloth
Dipl. Ing. Albrecht Walloth u. Alexander Nesch GbR im Ohl 69
D-59757 Arnsberg
Phone: +49 (0) 2932 - 700020
Fax: +49 (0) 2932 - 8 39 15
Email: info@wallothnesch.com <mailto:info@wallothnesch.com>
Internet: www.wallothnesch.com <http://www.wallothnesch.com/>
_____________________________________________________

Thank you. Will it be available soon?
Best Regards,

Boyd

_____________________________________________________

Dear Mr. Beattie,

sorry but the part you ask for is not available.

Best regards


Albrecht Walloth
Dipl. Ing. Albrecht Walloth u. Alexander Nesch GbR
im Ohl 69
D-59757 Arnsberg
Phone: +49 (0) 2932 - 700020
Fax: +49 (0) 2932 - 8 39 15
Email: info@wallothnesch.com <mailto:info@wallothnesch.com>
Internet: www.wallothnesch.com <http://www.wallothnesch.com/>

_____________________________________________________

Morning,

Are these:-
41000624008.JPG <http://www.wallothnesch.com/d/px/41000624008.JPG> Repair sheet for outer sill left or right side

Available just now?

If so, I'd like to order a pair please.

Best Regards,


Boyd
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 15:15
Come on the rest of you 6 series guys, blitz W & N with requests for these rear arch repair sections........
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 15:39
Originally posted by UKDaveJ UKDaveJ wrote:

Come on the rest of you 6 series guys, blitz W & N with requests for these rear arch repair sections........


Sod the rear arch repair sections, blitz them with requests for the *sill* repair sections.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 17:07

Originally posted by Volvo240GLT Volvo240GLT wrote:

Anyway, how do I put this car on jack stands?

Other things that really need fixing (MOT didn't pick up on that): Sometimes when turning from straight to right a lot of whining can be heard and it gets very difficult to turn the wheel. Doesn't sound like the belt (but this will be changed soon) so could this be the pump? Any suggestions?

Thanks

To get the car in the air, jack it up under the front subframe, then use axle stands under the lashing eye brackets at the front. At the rear, jack under the diff and use axle stands under the rear subframe. Even with cheap (ie short) axle stands the car will be well up, and this way you won't stress or damage the finish on the jacking points.

The PAS thing sounds like there is a minor fault. As first steps, check the belt, the 'bomb', the filter in the reservoir, and change the oil. Old/dirty oil can cause sticky valves.

If you think 6ers are too full of computers you definitely don't want a more modern car. Unlike older Volvos etc, 6er maintenance isn't always easy or straightforward; the dizzy cap is a good case in point. By consolation you should maybe consider that it was likely the first time it had been disturbed from new...

-hope your restest goes OK

cheers

 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 17:32
Andy S, You will find out soon enough what rust is you keep going to sunday lunch in the snow !

Regards

Rob
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2006 at 17:38

Originally posted by m3Cecotto m3Cecotto wrote:

Originally posted by UKDaveJ UKDaveJ wrote:

Come on the rest of you 6 series guys, blitz W & N with requests for these rear arch repair sections........


Sod the rear arch repair sections, blitz them with requests for the *sill* repair sections.

 

 

Right, here goes.......


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 05:14
Originally posted by Robmw Robmw wrote:

Andy S, You will find out soon enough what rust is you keep going to sunday lunch in the snow !


Nah! Just spend some quality time scrubbing out the wheel arches followed by a good wash & dry.

It's easier than replacing arches from the sound of it!

I'd have thought Mobile Tradition would have been prepared to help.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 05:19
Originally posted by Brucey Brucey wrote:

At the rear, jack under the diff and use axle stands under the rear subframe.


I may be wrong but I thought it was a bad idea to jack under the diff as it wasn't designed to take the cars weight. It will over-stress the diff mounts & possibly damage the floor.

It's ok on a live axle as the cars weight is still carried on the springs.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 05:32
Brucey, I changed the fluid but didn't know how much to fill in?

Is the filter the metal thingy at the top of the reservoir? How does that filter anything? It looked clean anyway.

The bomb?

Edited by Volvo240GLT
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2006 at 06:02
Originally posted by Brucey Brucey wrote:

To get the car in the air, jack it up under the front subframe, then use axle stands under the lashing eye brackets at the front.



Sorrry Brucey, but what are the lashing eye brackets??!!
Not where the bottom arms locate is it?
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