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Forum LockedM52 Water pump pulley bolts

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Andrew Rolland View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2006 at 03:09

Thanks for that Bill.

I did wonder about wafting a heat source over it.  I would be tempted to do this if I was replacing the viscous coupling so if I damaged it, there wouldn't be a problem.  However Mister Postman delivered this yesterday so I may be able to try it before the next assault on the nut this Saturday!

Andrew



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2006 at 08:37

Psyching myself up for tomorrows assault on the viscous fan nut!

Wish me luck!

Andrew



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2006 at 09:13
good luck hope the rain stays off for u 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2006 at 09:49
The Draper Viscous Fan Holding Tool together with the Draper 32mm Fan Hub wrench worked a treat. I sprayed some release fluid down a tube to reach the nut for starters but I still had to belt the end of the wrench with a 4lb lump hammer three times. As soon as it gave way the nut came off easily. My biggest worry (and still is) was disconnecting the so called "quick release" hose connectors. The main hose was easy enough, it was the two sets of smaller hoses that connect into, and out of, what seems to be an impeller pump at the bottom of the fan shroud. I have left the fan shroud sticking halfway out of the engine bay for today until I can fathom a way of pulling off these seized hoses without having to cut them loose.
The engine is a M52TV with more projections interfering with access than I have seen on any engine I have worked on.
Dave E
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2006 at 12:11

Thanks Dave.  I'll try out my tool and let you know how I get on.

I'm thinking trolley jack and a piece of timber to apply hydraulic pressure so it a constant force on the spanner handle.  Sounds complicated but I have a picture of how I'm going to do it my head!

Your car, being a year newer may make all the difference between a seized nut and one that will come off more easily!

Andrew

PS the weather looked good and the fiancé even said she would come out 'to hold something' if required!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-January-2006 at 14:19
Hi Andrew. Are you going to carry out the work from beneath the car?   I tried both but found it easier to work from above with the tools in a "V" formation, ie the pulley holding tool positioned at 11.0 clock and the spanner at 2.o clock. The spanner sticks up about 1inch above the shroud but sufficient to receive the blows of the hammer with the right hand whilst gripping the holding tool in the left hand ready to withstand the force of backlash of the blows from the hammer. The pulley restraint tool has a loose hinged part that depends on natural gravity to let it drop around the nut of the pulley. Trying to do it from beneath prevented this. It is impossible to put your hand up in the space to position it by hand.
Anyway best of luck. I will be working on the hose connectors tomorrow. I am awaiting advice from Robert Stern who have been servicing my cars for about 7 years so a liitle bit of free advice should not come amiss - hopefully.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-January-2006 at 15:50
No luck with Robert Stern - I will take my e-mail in with me on my next visit to find out why.
Anyway, problem solved. I borrowed a TIS CD; it fully explained the procedure on the "snap on" hose connectors - quite clever really.
The CD also explained the impeller pump or as they called it the 'Auxiliary Water Pump'. When refilling the system the instruction is to turn on the iginition to cause it to operate (including setting heater controls and blower on low of course).
I don't like the design of the thermostat with housing unit. It has to be purchsed as a complete unit because the thermostat is set into the housing with two flimsy plastic retainers. My thermostat hadn't failed, these plastic retainers had broken off and unseated the thermostat.

Dave E
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2006 at 03:40

Well.....

Dragged myself out of bed at 9 am, went out to the car just after 9 am to commence battle with the viscous fan coupling nut.  Armed with my new Draper tool, (working from the engine compartment, car on its wheels with me facing the fan) I got it located on two water pump pulley bolts at the 3 o'clock position and put the viscous coupling spanner on the nut from the 9 o'clock position and with a big heave with both arms upwards, I shot backwards away from the car.....

Thinking I had just had one of the tools slipped off I went back for another look at to my surprise I had loosened the nut.  

It just came of with a heave, no hammers or anything!

I was back in the house for a cup of tea by 10 past 9!

I had done it in less than 5 minutes, what me and the old boy had tried to do in 1.5 hours a week ago.

Fan came off, fan cowling came off. Had to de-ice the car so ran the engine before driving her up on the ramps and water was also coming out the stat O ring and dripping onto the crank angle sensor.  Not good. 

Drained the radiator with the heater fan on to try and pump out as much old coolant from the heater matrix. 

Removed the water pump by jacking it out from the block with 2 M6 bolts as per Haynes Comic Book followed by about 3.5 litres of coolant from the top of the block and head! 

Thermostat housing came out and I saw that the seal had well and truly failed, no wonder I was loosing water!  I had to prise the thermostat out.  The stat was rather worryingly coated in wax.  The thing must have started to leak out its wax which would explain why I thought I had a bit of a lazy stat, i.e. opening too early and not getting enough heat into the heater.

I put a smear of petroleum jelly on the rubber seals of the water pump, thermostat housing seal and the stat O ring before re-assembly.

I then noticed how easy the radiator would come out so that was removed from the car and back flushed with a garden hose, bit of sludge came out but I was more concerned with the build up of leaves and muck in the radiator fins so I brushed that clean under running water. 

All went back together with no problems.  I filled the system with the heater on to try and avoid air locks.  I filled it thru the bleed screw on the stat housing rather than the expansion tank cap. I used 50-50 mix antifreeze, Mobil 1 stuff that was recently buy 2 and get 1 free from Halfrauds.  Meets all the right numbers and standards that BMW say in the cars handbook.

All back together and ready to start her up.  Turned key and nothing.... I had sodding well drained the battery with having the heater on to power the auxiliary pump in an effort to avoid air locks. 

After all that I couldn't start it! D'oh.

Jump start later and no leaks anywhere, no air could be bled out the bleed screws and the heater is now seriously hot when set at 32 deg!

Nice and warm on the way to work this morning.  Heater is now hot enough for me at 24 deg instead of the more recent 28 deg!

Problem solved.  I am happy (and warm) now.  Just the front brakes to do and get a new battery!

Thanks for all your tips and suggestions guys.

Andrew

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2006 at 04:18
Well done Andrew!
With these BMWs there is more work in getting to the problem than the problem itself. (Unlike my long gone 1933 Ford 8 and 1939 Rover 20 sports where one could almost stand inside the engine bay whilst working).
I felt like renewing the belts and water pump whilst it was all bare but was too anxious to get her back on the road.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2006 at 04:29

Nice one Andrew.

One thing I've learned over the last few years is that there's no substitute for the right tools.

Glad you've got it sorted - must be very satisfying.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2006 at 05:37
Congratulations! Another page in your "How to..." book!!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-January-2006 at 14:05
My faulty thermostat must have been getting worse over many months. I drove the car from cold for the first time since renewing the thermostat and was surprised that it began to get warm after 3/10ths of a mile and had already left the blue sector on the scale at 7/10ths of a mile. It soon approached the 12.0 clock position and stayed there. I understand that any fluctuations in temperature are smoothed out in the electronics to maintain the 12.0 clock position.
OK, so you may say "So What?" but I don't remember it ever getting this warm so quickly.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 03:21

No you are spot on Dave. 

When I first got my E39 17 months ago, I could tell where I would be on my journey by looking at the temp gauge.  By the end of my estate it would be out of the blue and then by the junction with the main road it would be a certain position and then I knew exactly where on the dual carriageway it would at the 12 o'clock position.  This happened regardless of the time of year.

When I saw my temp gauge do something different, I knew my stat was on the way out.  And sure enough on removing the old stat on Saturday, it had leaked wax and was more than on it's way out.

I reckon my problems started at the end of October when I heard gurgling noises from deep in the dash, which will have been an air lock in the heater matrix.  This wasn't helped or was indeed caused by the fact that air could get in and coolant could get out from the thermostat housing. I noticed this leak at the end of November.  I then didn't loose to much coolant during December but kept a close eye on it.

Referring back to earlier posts.  It does absolutely pay to have the right tool for the job.  When both me and my dad struggled last weekend hitting it with a 2lbs lump hammer, my dad was saying that we should not have to hit a Precision (German) Engineered Car with a club hammer!  - Correct tool next weekend - 5 mins later - fan off!

Andrew

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 03:38
The torque setting for the fan nut is 40Nm which is 30Nm with the extented spanner. Considering wheel nuts are 100 Nm it would be easy to overtighten which may tend to be the cause of so many problems.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 04:03

My fan was tightened up to the following torque -

"yup that feels about right torque"!

What is the point giving you a torque setting on a nut which you can't actually measure it using any available to buy torque wrenches?

Does that mean we should hang a 4 kg weight from the end of a 1 m long spanner to get the 40Nm torque.  I think not.

Andrew

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 04:12
And I bet you weren't far out. Takes you back to guessing the weight at the local charity fetes.
I used to torque my wheel nuts but not any more as I get them pretty well right now (that's after 55 years of DIY mechanics). Yes I know - I'm getting too old in the tooth for this game.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 14:57

My stats gone in my e39 as well. Surely BMW must recognise that they've manufactured a crap part and give some sort of gratuity payment. I've heard of so many M52 lumps this year with the same problem. 

I'll get round to changing it soon as it needs to be sold.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 15:41
Good point whitey,

I will take this photo to Robertt Stern in the first instance then go on from there to BMW UK if necessary.



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 15:45
YIPPEE - my very first photo in over three years.
(My wife said it was no good waiting until I had built my Web site which is still about 10% complete)



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2006 at 16:17

Very nice picture Dave.

I can tell that you will be a great contributor < spell... to this forum

Andrew thank you for your indepth thoughts and actions.  This Kind of post must help people ALL OVER THE WORLD I mean lets face it we are on the world wide web he he

And Andrew I remember your posts from october, many things, just now, slot in to place

 

Ta

 

Bill

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