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phb10186 
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 18-April-2005
Location: North London
Status: Offline
Points: 331
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 Topic: Non-start ..the saga continues!
Posted: 27-December-2005 at 16:25 |
And so it ends.......
Please see my new post!
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1985 635 CSI with Style 134's
1998 Z3 2.8i
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Sponsored Links
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siscobmw
Senior Member II
Joined: 13-May-2005
Location: North Italy , near lake of Como
Status: Offline
Points: 201
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Posted: 26-December-2005 at 15:28 |
Hope that Santa Klaus come home , last night and fixed your 6....
MErry christmas !
SiSco from North Italy
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dutch
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 17-December-2005
Location: lakeside Essex
Status: Offline
Points: 438
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Posted: 23-December-2005 at 15:27 |
Hi Ben
nodded off there reading through so many pages, have you sorted your nightmare out yet.
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e39,1200 bandit
cooper S, Z3 topazbleu
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PaulS
Really Senior Member II
East Anglia BMWCC Regional Chairman
Joined: 03-July-2004
Location: Aylsham, Norfolk
Status: Offline
Points: 2516
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Posted: 20-December-2005 at 11:05 |
I bought springs for the E28 not cut a ring off - thats suicide!! I shall see what its like when the shocks are replaced. I may lower it but only by 20mm if I do.
Paul
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 95 E34 530i V8 Auto Maldives Blue
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Jimbob
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Joined: 27-July-2005
Location: Live: West Sussex - Work: Islington
Status: Offline
Points: 190
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Posted: 20-December-2005 at 08:16 |
 Drew540i wrote:
That car needs lowering badly!  |
No, no, it needs lowering properly. 
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And so says Jimbob.
1981 635csi 81k miles. Will be fixed, but not by me.
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Drew540i
Really Senior Member II
Available from all good newsagents!
Joined: 15-August-2005
Location: The Mansfield Massive
Status: Offline
Points: 632
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Posted: 20-December-2005 at 01:06 |
Unless the front spring cups are rotten, it won't be a
problem. Just clean out and Waxoyl the spring cups
and it'll be fine. Dampers won't affect the ride height
anyway, a common misconception.
A 30mm drop won't be an issue but be aware that
unlike E30 and E28, you can't 'cut a coil' off E34 and
E32 springs as the top and bottom coils are a
smaller diameter than the middle ones!
That car needs lowering badly!
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PaulS
Really Senior Member II
East Anglia BMWCC Regional Chairman
Joined: 03-July-2004
Location: Aylsham, Norfolk
Status: Offline
Points: 2516
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Posted: 19-December-2005 at 13:17 |
eta,
I know of that problem as the drivers side carrier base broke with my lowered spings on and scared the cr*p out of me as I'd just gone round a bend doing 65 mph at the time. Was lucky that I had just straightened the wheel at the time.
Drew,
The front shocks need replacing thats why it looks terrible. Am very unsure about lowering this car after what happened to the E28
Paul
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95 E34 530i V8 Auto Maldives Blue
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Hiabboy
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 05-February-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 325
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Posted: 19-December-2005 at 11:05 |
All my legs are ABS ones from facelift turds.
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Profit is more reasonable than justice.
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M3AG
Really Senior Member II
7 series & e36 m3 registrar! (Madness)
Joined: 17-October-2002
Location: Good Old Hertfordshire
Status: Offline
Points: 1644
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Posted: 19-December-2005 at 10:59 |
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Hiab
These with ABS or without?
Good to know you have some, as when mines back from the shop, that'll be one of the first things I'll be investigating!
AG
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we're the Sweeney son, and we ain't had our dinner.....
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Hiabboy
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 05-February-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 325
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Posted: 19-December-2005 at 06:06 |
I have several mint e23 complete front legs, these were taken off low mileage dry climate 745s that died.........
I also have some mint e28 m5/m535 legs as well.
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Profit is more reasonable than justice.
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eta.
Really Senior Member II
Joined: 21-October-2002
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 599
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Posted: 19-December-2005 at 05:44 |
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If you are working on the front shockers pay careful attention to the spring carrier base welded to the leg. Look for corrosion caused by drain holes getting blocked. Spate of these failures on e23's recently.
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Drew540i
Really Senior Member II
Available from all good newsagents!
Joined: 15-August-2005
Location: The Mansfield Massive
Status: Offline
Points: 632
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Posted: 18-December-2005 at 07:58 |
Jesus, haven't you got the lowering springs on the
'34 yet? It looks like a 4x4!!
It's well worth doing the front shocks at the same
time. If you're on a budget, the French made Alco
ones are very good and don't give anything away to
the Boge ones. About £70 a pair with the VAT I think.
I've found that doing just the fronts is okay and leave
the back as it is, but it's down to each individual I
guess!
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PaulS
Really Senior Member II
East Anglia BMWCC Regional Chairman
Joined: 03-July-2004
Location: Aylsham, Norfolk
Status: Offline
Points: 2516
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Posted: 18-December-2005 at 06:10 |
Just to throw my tuppence in,
When I did an engine transplant on my old 528 it wouldn't start and had same symptoms - mine ended up being 4 out of the 6 injectors blocked. Changed the injectors and rail and started within 30 seconds. HTH
Paul
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95 E34 530i V8 Auto Maldives Blue
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siscobmw
Senior Member II
Joined: 13-May-2005
Location: North Italy , near lake of Como
Status: Offline
Points: 201
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Posted: 17-December-2005 at 04:32 |
Drew540i wrote:
When you've done all you can it would be time to crack
the wallet |
If these tips are not successful, I think that your wallet , dear phb10186 ,will have a bad breakaway before your 635 in the wet.....
If You were near me, I should take you to my friend, who got a BMW programmtester from a old bmw dealer (now there's a market in that place...).
Francesco
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Drew540i
Really Senior Member II
Available from all good newsagents!
Joined: 15-August-2005
Location: The Mansfield Massive
Status: Offline
Points: 632
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Posted: 16-December-2005 at 19:02 |
Phil's (286bhp) post outlines just what a nightmare
this can be. When you've done all you can (power at
the ECU??  .......), it would be time to crack
the wallet open and get Phil to sort it out - if he can't
get it going then nobody can.
The money you spend on getting it fixed will soon be
forgotten when you're out cruising.........
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autofix
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 23-August-2003
Location: Kildare
Status: Offline
Points: 294
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Posted: 16-December-2005 at 17:59 |
Hi Francesco,
Some good info there but it may be worth a mention that sensors which ohm ok can still be faulty. If they ohm bad (open, short or ay out of spec) then they are bad for sure but the converse is not always true. the only sure way to test is, as mentioned by another member above, to scope them. Of course "bolt on diagnostics" is another option as fitting known good parts is a pretty sure way to go, as long as there is not more than one part faulty.
It's all fun and games
Alan
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siscobmw
Senior Member II
Joined: 13-May-2005
Location: North Italy , near lake of Como
Status: Offline
Points: 201
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Posted: 16-December-2005 at 08:24 |
If you have a multimeter, you can check it :
crank position sender:pin1 + pin2 = 860-1060 Ohm is good
the other sensor on the clutch bellhousing:pin 1+3=100.000 Ohm is good
throttle position sender:pin18 + pin3 =infinite Ohm when throttle is wide open; pin2 + pin18=infinite (always, or the sender is gone...)..
AFM:You have from left to right pin no. 5-9-7-8, they are numbered in the AFm plug...Pin9+7=Ohm value increase costantly as you open the inner AFM flap ; Pin 7 + 8 (temperature sensor inside the AFM)= costant increase also here ...
If some of these paramethers are not the same in your car, you have found the the faulty part.
Temp sensor parameters(not so useful, in this case, but I wrote here some good stuff for everyone else, just in case...):
for Bosch temp sensor 0280 xxx 023 :
-10°c=7000-11600 Ohm,
+20°c=2100-2900 Ohm,
+80°c=200-400 Ohm.
Sensor Bosch no. 0 280 xxx 026:
-10°c = 8200-10500 Ohm,
+20°c = 2200-2700 Ohm,
+80°c = 300-360 Ohm.
Hoep this helps
Francesco
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286bhp
Groupie
Joined: 27-January-2005
Location: Herts & Middx
Status: Offline
Points: 88
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Posted: 16-December-2005 at 07:12 |
I had an E28 M5 with this exact problem many years ago..
The fuel pump would run, the plugs got wet, but the B***ard wouldn't run. Anyway , after 4 hours of language, I pulled the engine wiring loom off the engine & cut it open. At some stage the car had been jetwashed under the bonnet. Water had got into the loom, and corroded the wiring inside the loom for the tdc sensor from the flywheel. The wire was intact, but had high resistance, killing the signal from the 'peg' on the flywheel.
The dme only needs to see signal from the rpm sensor ( ring gear teeth) that equates to a speed of greater than 300 rpm to trigger the fuel pump. The plugs will seem wet because the cold start injector runs separately from the ecu - it is controlled by the feed to the starter, and ignition live - no inetrvention from the DME at all. The main injectors & col will need to see the signal from the TDC 'peg triggered' sensor to work.
A few simple tests with a 'Scopemeter or equivalent will prove if this is the case.
As I live in NW london , I can call round and run the tests with you, to try and sort the problem out ??
Regards
Phil
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'01 M5
'02 MB C220 Turbosmoker
'99 323i (sold )
'89 M3 220hp with shrick 284's
'73 2002 cab
it's an Illness ......
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Drew540i
Really Senior Member II
Available from all good newsagents!
Joined: 15-August-2005
Location: The Mansfield Massive
Status: Offline
Points: 632
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Posted: 16-December-2005 at 05:31 |
autofix wrote:
IF your meter showed the poor
earth then you were just lucky as a meter loads the
circuit so little that it is not conclusive. Now do you
see the point?? You were in effect using the bulb to
test the circuit. |
Yes, I see what you mean about using a bulb to test
the circuit and see if it can actually light a bulb -
rather like a regular test light but more demanding?
I always (wrongly) assumed that to light up a bulb in
a test light there had to be current flow but as you
say, a 55 watt bulb sorts the men from the boys. But
all I'm saying is that the multimeter I have (nothing
special at all) measures DC and AC voltage, DC
current, resistance, diodes and hFE. I used it to
determine (or guestimate) that the earth was
inadequate, simple as. In this instance it was rusty
screws holding the thing on, typical French scrap.
But I admit you're vastly more qualified on this
subject - I won't argue with you again!
As for the analogy between bhp/torque and
volts/amps it was merely that, an analogy - volts and
bhp are the 'obvious' power values, yet it's torque
and amps that really do the job.......
No scientific connection whatsoever though.
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siscobmw
Senior Member II
Joined: 13-May-2005
Location: North Italy , near lake of Como
Status: Offline
Points: 201
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Posted: 16-December-2005 at 05:28 |
This is funny....Ironic, also.
I attempt to start my 635 this morning,I found no signs of life....
I probably was punished for my no-success posts here 
I found no High tension for the sparks....The coil is gone...and a new one fitted(I was lucky enough to have a spare one at home, but not so clever to watch for those advice about Economy gauge needle movements....Sorry).
Yesterday night I found my friend ,He has good BMW knowledge (1 2002 targa, 1 3,0CSL Batmobile,1 3,3Li , 1 e28 535i, 1 735i with Alpina engine,2 M635 and a 7/84 635, then a M5 e34 touring elekta, a M3 3.0 Gt and so on....a lot of them are mint thanks to his DIY restoration and a good partneship with Mobile tradition....I hope this is a good curriculum vitae..)and told me that sometimes happens that a connector near the ECU (3 wires , white socket)has loose connections or , and this is the worse, their 3 wires are strenghtened too much in the loom with those black plastic retainers...and they cut out...3 wires: one green one black and one white,they are attached near the ECU, and they travel under the entire dashboard till the EBC brain zone.... my friend's 635 had that problem, and 2 of those wires were ruined just behind the instrument cluster loom retainer....
Worth a try?
Hope this helps,
Francesco
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Non-start ..the saga continues!