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gary View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-January-2006 at 11:11
Looking good mate. Keep it going
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2006 at 04:25
Spent all day at a friends garage yesterday. Removed the old miltek exhaust. Drilled a hole for the bung for the wbo2 sensor on the new exhaust. It is louder but also has made a noticeable difference to the response of the throttle. It became more crisp.

Track rod ends replaced and just did the toe by eye as the garage does not have any tracking equipement. Although i drove home slowly, the car did not pull to the left or right and no vibrations.

Removed he wires for the check control diplay and also the wire for the sunroof. This one simply just unplugged using one small clip.

For the sunroof we were going to just weld back in the old panel. After a few minutes it became apparent it was going to be a pain to fit. We just go a thin sheet, cut to size. Ground down the lip on the underside of the opening. Then spot welded every 1/2" - 1". Then buffed this down and used some fibreglass to cover the weld.

I need to next sand this down and then fill in more of the space. I will finally but come cataline (this is what it sound like the guy was talking about) which wll go over the top of the fibreglass and is waterproof and paintable.

I know this is not as strong as a one piece roof, but a rollcage will be fitted eventually.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-February-2006 at 15:23
The suspension is now all on. The rear boot tank removed and the filler pipe has been trimmed down to one pipe with no Y split. I have removed the carbon canaster from up in the rear passenger side wheel arch. Vented one of the pipes to the bracket vacated by the canaster. I also had a new breather pipe attachment on the filler neck and routed the breather and relief vent pipes through the back panel and out the vacated breather pipe hole for the boot tank.

Because the boot tank has been removed the fuel guage and distance remaining on the OBC don't work, i have cut the wires back to the loom and soldered them together to connect the loop and the guage works again.

Took the car out for a little test and boy does it turn in well now with the GC top mounts. I did not push her hard as it needs setting up. This will be done on tuesday as the vehicle is off to get cornerwieghed toe, camber and caster set.

She's almost done, just a cage to get.
Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-February-2006 at 15:36

Toby

You may find the fuel gauge is not accurate.  I believe the sender units are in series and hence the resistance of both senders is required to give an accurate reading.

Karl

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-February-2006 at 11:54

Hey Toby, dont bother welding the sunroof back in unless you dont care about making waves in the roof.   did you remove the entire sunroof carrier? it looks like that is not all?  my carrier was a lot longer than yours...

Here is what I did:

-- removed the entire sunroof subframe/carrier and the sunroof. installed a CF sunroof panel. when it gets repainted it will look like there was never a sunroof on the car. painted from the top and bottom side.  this mod saves about 18-20 kg of weight at the highest point of the car. quite worthwhile and almost makes up for half the cage. my weld in gr. A heigo cell weighs 36 kg.

-- the interior is completely stripped (you saw that last year already)

-- the hood/fenders/front and rear bumpers/rear wing etc. are all CF. that is a lot of weight right there. particulary the bumpers. removing these really lowers the polar moment of the car.

-- the weld in cell picks up the front and rear strut towers, the diff, the axle pickups, the roof and so on.  I did not like the OMP stuff which is pre-assembled and often does not fit correctly without additional work. therefore I got a Heigo, nothing is pre-assembled, but all fits very well. you can tell the difference right away.  I also have the car on a JIG to prevent any possible deformation during welding. Since the car has a few ring miles on it, I also want to make sure that nothing has shifted as the metal works around a bit on the track.

-- I used H&R 22 / 18 mm anti roll bars last year on toyo R888  R-tires and this combo turned out very well. Im going to stick with it, even for the new suspension.  I think it goes in the right direction. On the DTM cars, they ran 27 / 22 mm solid bars (before the hollow bar era) on slicks. That looks like a LOT of front end stiffness, but it makes sense after a while. Of course tire is important. This would not make sense on a street tire.

-- I run a 75% motorsport differential. That made a big difference. It has a very positive feel and makes you more aggressive on the track. 

-- At easter I should have my new DTM 6 speed installed. The gearing ratios are awesome. I cant wait to run this. For starters I will stick with 3.73 rear end as it is the recommended ratio using a 1.92 circumference tire on the Ring, and Im using a 1.90 circumference tire.  needless to say 1st gear will do 100 kmh, so that means in klostertal I can downshift into 1st if I like :) or at Wehrseifen...

-- for aerodynamics, im not done yet, but I went ahead and got the flossman splitter/undertray. it seals off the entire bottom side of the engine. I may find out that I need much more rear end down force. we are working on a rear difusor for my car without relocating the exhaust system. relocating exhaust would be ideal, but Im willing to do a compromise here at this point.  there are also winglets for the flossman setup, so I may add those, but that is secondary.

my only concern right now is that Im going to be finished by easter.

this will really suck if I cant make it to easter, that would be the first time in many years.

If I cant make it with my car, Id come up to give FREE driver instruction, assuming anyone wanted me to sit in and give driver tips. But if I cant drive myself, or give any laps, then standing around in the parking lot would get a bit boring for me. Lets hope it doesnt come to this, I have 8 weeks left. 

cheers

John

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-February-2006 at 14:29
John

I did remove all the sunroof carrier. I had a thin sheet tack welded tight so it follows the curve of the roof. We tack welded every 3-4 inches to start with and used cold water on a rag. Once this was done, then we tack welded between until it was every 1/2 - 1" gap. The roof has not waved at all. I woll fill with fibre glass ans finish with a paintable filler, thin coat. It too should look like no sunroof when it gets a respray when i can afford it. My interior needs tidying, but when it gets a respray.

I plan to get fibre glass bumpers and have a fibre glass bonnet on the way. With this bonnet i was thinking about the windscreen eashers and might try and fab the 405 washers that attach to the wiper arm. I may do the CF front wings.

I was thinking when the cage goes in, whenever that is, to put in a CF dash instead of the OEM one, but UWe has suggested just to remove the internal rubber pasrt. I'd need to look into this.

I am on the look out for a 3.73 diff.

I'm sticking with standard ARBs and if i find i have too much roll i'll get higher rating springs, 550 fr & 275 r at the moment.

Your cars sounding awesome, especially the 6 speed box, 100kmh in first! What weight do you think your will be now, 1050kg?

I hope you get it ready for easter, if not you can passenger with me for some instructing, if you trust me. see you there.

Edited by 215m3
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-February-2006 at 14:33
I am up for some tutorial laps as well!
E61 520d, slow and buzzy but my wallet likes the mpg.....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-February-2006 at 14:49

Gents, excellent write ups a good thread. Any chance of some more pics? My car is half road half track at the moment, so once i sort out a daily driver i will take it that step further, so real interested in what youre up to!!

cheers

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-February-2006 at 18:04
Foxworth

what additional pics do you want?

I started this project because of my passion for the E30 M3 and trackdays. I can do some maintanence at home and thought this would help others and me of course.
Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-February-2006 at 04:42

just a few pics from the outside etc would be nice - no rush!

cheers

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-March-2006 at 04:10
Well the car had it's first track outing since the new suspension, extra weight loss in the rear tank and sunroof have been removed.

It handled like a dream, turn in was superb, with 3.5 deg of neg camber, 3.5 deg neg caster and a touch of toe in. Ride height slightly lower at the back, which is apparently how the DTM cars ran.

East Fortune, is a cracking little track and much more fun than Knockhill. Knockhills slopes kill it for me. At EF you can keep your speed up and there is plenty of run off, if needs be.

I'm 85% happy with the brake set up now, with only a slight bit of judder, that was curred by pressing harder, no fade all day and i used the brakes hard. It took 2 to 3 laps to warm up the yoko R's, that i was not pleased with at Oulton Park, but running them 23 psi cold they never let me down all day with any heat issues, but it was cold 5 deg C.

Myself, Steve, 535d with tweeks and Stuart, compact with 3ltr M3 had a great day alround.

Pics coming soon.
Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-March-2006 at 05:57

Toby

glad to here the car's coming together, mine just needs a bit more track time as i'm struggling for a bit more grip from the old road tyres (suspension fine tuning) off to book Brands for the 29th all the best

Martin

Oops i went and got an E36 !
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-March-2006 at 11:36

Hi Toby, sounds good, you are already tracking the car again?

We are buried in snow here in Munich, I can almost not get my DD car out of the garage today. got 50 cm of snow in the last day.

My car is still in pieces, its on a Jig right now to finalize all the welds now.  this is a crmo cage and all the welds are being done twice, first weld, then again at lower heat to stress relieve.   End of next week it goes for painting (inside and out).  Then it gets put back together. All the carbon stuff is here now too.  My engine is out and I saw the large oil pan was starting to develop a leak, so I will put it on the stand and reseal it. Then the new gearbox has to go in.  I dont think I can get the new suspension in and tune it as well in time for easter, so I think Im going to have to leave that off.   As it is Im going to have to take first few laps easy just to make sure we got all the bolts tight :)  not that I loose a rear axle or anything :)

John

 

 

 

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-March-2006 at 13:33
Cheers guys.

John it's the first and last trackday until may sometime, probably and oulton park trip.

John mine is off for a cage in the next week or so and will be getting seem welded as well. This adds 25% extra stiffness over and above the cage.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-March-2006 at 13:34
The rear fuel cell came out the other week, but this ment the reading of the fuel gauge was off. Dave advised to take out the rear cell guage and hang it in the car to get the proper reading on the guage.

Instead of this my mechanic recommend i get a resistor and find the resistance of the rear cell guage.

It's 34.8 ohms so i have wired in a 36 ohms resistor and fuel guage is working as normal now. The resistor cosy 9p. cheap fix.

I also need a new or replacement main fuel tank as i filled it up tonight for it's trip to get the cage and was spilling out when full. Maybe need to look into a fuel cell in the boot. Oh well.
Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2006 at 13:37
A small update. The car went for it's cage and the gusy replaced part of the drivers footwell that was rotten. It was also seem welded. When the dash came out they found a huge hole. Also the rot dissappeared behind the heater matrix cover in the engine bay.

They asked if i could get the engine out so they can get better access to replacing the rotten parts.

The car is back at home and i have removed the complete wiring loom as it had had parts of it removed to get Kev's car to the Ring at easter.

All the lights, bumpers, bonnet, coolant piping etc have been removed. I still need to remove the oil cooler and replace it, the power steering pump, prop, pedal box and servo.

I'll just leave it as a rolling shell for the cage to go in. Then when i get it back the rest will come off prior to spraying. The rear light panel needs replacing. I will also replace the bumpers and front wings with either FG or CF. Then have the car prepped to get ride of all the rust prior to spraying.

I'm not sure of what colour i would like. I like white and purple, but also liked my brilliantrot colour of the last M3.

I have also replaced my bell housing for my discs that take AP discs and have included a 10mm spacer onto it. IT is a work of art on it's own.

I also have the CF DTM mirrors and Grp A shifter in a box from Marcus that can go on.

Oh well not such a small update

The disc and hub fitted just to make sure they cleared the caliper and do



With one of my new wheels, a 16" Kosei K1 Racing lightwieght rim



An inside shot



Rot under the dash



From the engine bay





Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2006 at 13:59

 

Toby,

 

Sucks fakes, now I know why your car is so light. Your car looks worse that the 2002 I`m currently stripping, and I thought that it was bad.

Look on the bright side, at least you have found while you can still save it. Could have been worse if left longer. Have you thought of speaking to Jake about his shell he has on offer, as may be a better way to go.

Anyway, keep up the progress and hope to see on track soon,

 

 

Regards,

 

Dave

E30 M3 Road car ( Now in Hongkong )
E30 M3 Track Car
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E30 C2 2.7 Alpina
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2006 at 19:28

Toby, it sure pains me to see an M3 with that kind of damage.

I hope you are not offended, but from the few pics Im seeing

it looks like you have to replace the firewall and the inner fender

housings.  Im guessing this is not all.    How does the rest of the

car look?   If you want to make the car rust free (remember

rust likes to come back, you have to change out hole sections

of sheet metal to get rid of it) this might cost significant money.

Im also thinking you should consider an alternative shell.

I might be wrong though. Post more pics.  remember when you

weld in a cage you need a solid base to work from.  if you do

replace the inner fenders, you can do something like I did

and have them raised 4 cm (like DTM 92) this will provide you

with total wheel clearance for any of the common tires sizes

regardless of how low you go.

John

 

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2006 at 19:54
The shell is in good condition all over apart from this section and the drivers footwell, that has been repared. I have been quote a figure to fix it. The guys who will do the shell will fix the rot. They build one off Paris-Dakar cars which have over Ł100k spent on them. They would not put a cage in a shell that would not cope with it, that's why they've asked me to remove the engine so they can get at the rust and replace it all.
Tey seem to knoe what they are doing. They did Waynes cage in his Jagier replica.
Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2006 at 19:56
Ouch,that rust is pretty much like Jake's car was on the bulkhead. Have you got a quote on the work to repair that ? Is the car going to be a complete bare shell job ? Also, what's the weight difference in the new and old wheels ?

Good luck with it Toby.

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