Fitting suspension bushings
Printed From: Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum
Category: Technical & Model Specific Forums
Forum Name: BMW 6 Series
Forum Discription: This forum will deal with any issues on the BMW 6 Series (E24, E63 & E64)
URL: http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=28445
Printed Date: 27-May-2024 at 21:44
Topic: Fitting suspension bushings
Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Subject: Fitting suspension bushings
Date Posted: 19-March-2006 at 04:40
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My rear suspension bushings (haven't looked at the front) look pretty worn and it would probably be a good idea to replace them. Are there any front or rear bushings that I would need a machine shop to press out and in? Thanks ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Replies:
Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 19-March-2006 at 06:02
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The big subframe bushes ahead of the rear wheels really need the correct tool to replace (some clever bods make their own). If these are worn the car will feel very peculiar to drive as the rear wheels will be steering too. Other bushes are more straight forward to replace. Have a look at the diff mounts while you're under there as these can get a little tired too. The front bushes tend to wear more & it's a common dodge to replace some of the components with uprated items ie. 750 bushes which have to be machined down a little. See http://www.bigcoupe.com/ - BigCoupe.com tech articles for advice. Don't forget the anti-roll bar bushes too. Some people swear by poly bushes which are stiffer than standard bushes. They last longer but do make the ride harsher & noisier. This may or may not be an acceptable trade off for you. If you've ever been in an M3 you'll see how stiffer bushes give a "tight" feel to the suspension. Replacing all front & rear bushes is an effective way of getting the "as new" feel back into your car. ------------- AndyS Live each day as if it's your last - one day it will be. http://www.photostick.co.uk/view-933_BaurSig1.jpg" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 19-March-2006 at 06:37
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Thanks for this info. I think I'll go with standard bushes. So I'll just pull the rear wish bones out and take them to the shop and the rest I can do myself? I don't need a press for any of the front ones? Thanks ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 19-March-2006 at 11:16
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Ok, had a further look and have two questions: - How do I seperate the rear wishbone from the hub? Do I need to take the hub apart? - What's the small "bone" going from the outer joint of the wishbone to the body for? It's fitted with bushings but I can't really figure out what the purpose is? Thanks ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: Brucey
Date Posted: 19-March-2006 at 14:39
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these are the 'pitman arms' or 'dog bones'. They provide for lateral trailing arm control and also affect the rear toe settings when cornering. They are only present on E28-base chassis 6ers, E12 base ones did without. If they are knackered the handling (especially turn-in) will be absolute pants. They are a doddle to change, and aren't even a lot of money. I'd advise you re the other bushings, but its not a job I've had to do myself.... cheers
------------- ~~~~~~~ Brucey ~~~~~~ |
Volvo240GLT wrote:Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 19-March-2006 at 14:44
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Brucey, thaks for all your help. When you say replace do you mean replace the whole pitman arm or just the bushings? I think I'll remove the wishbones with the hubs still on them. Are the bolts on the outer CV joint usually hard to get off? Thanks! ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: Brucey
Date Posted: 19-March-2006 at 15:57
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the whole wee pitman arm is replaced- Dave J did his a while back and posted some pictures on bigcoupe.com IIRC. The CV joint bolts are best released with the car still sat on its wheels (they can be rather tight), but undone completely when the the car is in the air and you can turn the wheel/shaft; a ball-ended allen key is an excellent idea as it gets a bit tedious otherwise.... When removing the trailing arms, I would advise removing the whole driveshaft as otherwise you may strain the rubber boots a bit much, BTW. cheers
------------- ~~~~~~~ Brucey ~~~~~~ |
Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 20-March-2006 at 07:13
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I can't believe the brake lines go through the wishbones twice! What a nightmare. ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |
Posted By: UKDaveJ
Date Posted: 20-March-2006 at 13:43
http://www.bmwcarclubforum.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=24108&KW=pitman+ - HERE including Pitman arm b4 & after pics..... Have you been in touch with 'ron'? He's been changing all his fluid lines as well.Good luck ------------- My 635's.  
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Posted By: Volvo240GLT
Date Posted: 20-March-2006 at 15:04
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Ok, I've given up on doing the wishbone to subframe bushings. I'm looking into cutting of the small brackets that holds the brake and fuel lines and remove the lines to get the screws out. ------------- Cheers Henrik Morsing '89 Volvo 240GLT B230E/AW70 '89 BMW 635CSi Highline Motorsport '70 Chevrolet Chevelle (Malibu) 350/350 Previous cars ----- '76 Volvo 244GL B21E/M40 '87 Chevrolet El Camino 305/200r4 |