Hi. Have any of you used Ametech Engine Restore Oil and does it really work? It got a good review from Quentin Willson in the Sunday Mirror.

http:/stores.ebay.co.uk/AMETECH-ENGINE-RESTORE-OIL

bmw1066 wrote: It is Fantastic stuff...Ignore any one that says no

What even if Quentin Willson recommends it?

bmw1066 wrote: Even, I used it First

Well OK then  

"as recommended by bmw1066" should be on every can (bottle?)

thepits wrote: Horsetan wrote: Apparently works on rotary engines too..... Oh you mean like the ones in cars that Bankers drive?

Errm....

So what is this amazing Ametech engine restore oil and what exactly does it do?

Peter Fenwick wrote: So what is this amazing Ametech engine restore oil and what exactly does it do?

http://www.t-centre.co.uk/directory/ametech.html - This may be of interest

Also http://www.restoreusa.com/ - THIS

Wow, it sounds like a miracle cure for worn out engines......It also sounds a bit too good to be true.......So how does it work?

Peter Fenwick wrote: Wow, it sounds like a miracle cure for worn out engines......It also sounds a bit too good to be true.......So how does it work?

Sounds like it's a more elaborate palliative than the old "Slick-50" treatment.

I haven't needed to try it yet, as my engine is nowhere near "worn out"; new cylinder head was fitted about 21,000 miles ago.

It's an interesting idea, and we've already got Mark swearing as to its effectiveness, although I wonder whether his car actually needed it....

Derek M5 wrote: someone been oiling snakes again?

I was just thinking of 'snake oil'

As I said used it on Rover v8, and the diffrence is unbelive.

ear of the cylinder walls which leads to compression loss. Lost compression results in your engine having less power --- it runs poorly and has sluggish acceleration. It also can cause increased oil burning, exhaust smoking, and poor fuel economy.

RESTORE Engine Restorer and Lubricant is a unique engine additive that repairs those worn-out areas in the cylinder wall thereby restoring cylinder compression and improving engine performance to nearly new original condition. RESTORE is the only product that contains the proprietary CSL formula. This technologically advanced formulation fills in and seals micro-leaks in the cylinder wall. The result is increased engine compression and more engine power. Independent lab tests prove that RESTORE really works to increase cylinder compression.

Hmmm.  If it increases compression, it increases friction.

This may be a good thing for worn out old engines, but for modern cars with very tight tolerences, it may be detrimental.  Whatever it is, a fluid ain't gonna be a replacement for metal.

I'm sure it's good, but it isn't going to make a 200k engine brand new again!

Mark, yes I saw the 'sales pitch' on the website. What I would like to know is how it actually repairs worn out areas in cylinder walls. What exactly is the additive i.e it's chemical formula.

Hi there, i am involved with the Ametech Engine Restore Oil project as a Director of Ametech, so I know my recommendation is slanted, but here is a letter we received from from John Morgan of

PRESTIGE GERMAN CARS

THE INDEPENDENT SPECIALIST FOR BMW, MERCEDES BENZ, PORSCHE.

0191-456-6623

http://www.prestige-german-cars.co.uk/ - http://www.prestige-german-cars.co.uk

Hi Dave,

Just to say how good Ametech Engine Restore Oil proved to be in a BMW 530i V8. These V8 engines fitted to earlier 5 series and 7 series are renowned for bore wear. We told the customer he would require a new bottom end to cure his fault (short motor £2500). I then saw Ametech and bought it. With the customers authority we put it in his engine with new oil and filter and told him to run it and return after 500 miles. We were amazed at the result. That is why I am ordering more and giving the customers an option – a new bottom end £2500 or a can or two of Ametech. All have said ‘Ametech’ please…Regards JRMorgan (owner) April 2005

I am sorry, I forgot to answer the last question on how Ametech works. The CSL particles are copper silver and lead (CSL) in a microscopic matrix. under an electron microscope they look like chocolate maltesers, or space asteroids. they are from 2microns to 20 microns in diameter and because they are smooth they even pass easily through standard 8micron paper filters. the larger particles are first to be adsorbed and absorbed into the scratches (whereever there is heat and friction) and become burnished into the cylinder walls, crank shell bearings, camshaft bushings etc etc. upon dissassembly you can see what is left of the CSl particles as a mottled metal surface, bright silver, dull gray lead and shiny copper - a few years back the Porsche mechanics at Le Mans thought it was 'rust' and were going to hone it out until our guy pointed out that the CSL was the reason the engines had not worn or slowed at all during the race and in fact the lap times confirmed it: the last lap was the same time as the first lap (unheard of before RESTORE CSL).

there are some pictures of the CSL particles on the ebay RESTORE BMW site if you are interested. thks daveb

£40 for a litre can, though  ....and that would be my size for a 3.5-litre engine

I spoke with them at the NEC and it does appear to be good stuff. I have yet to discuss it with my mechanic.

James

-don't fix it if it ain't broke yet, anyone....?

I'd use it in a knackered Nikasil engine, but only if I had to, nothing to lose etc.

 Is it my imagination, or has 'oilman' been silent on this one (possibly acting on the 'if you can't say anything nice...' axiom....??

cheers

Hi Peter, I am a director of Ametech that is importing and distributing the RESTORE OIL here in the UK so my opinion is slanted. But I became a distributor by first using RESTORE in 8 vehicles whilst in the USA for 20 years. When I returned to the UK it was not here so I started importing it. It the USA it is stocked in 800 Walmarts and 600 KMarts and they do not tolerate fools lightly but no refunds or returns in sales exceeding 120 million cans since 1985. Each 250ml can contains a high grade engine oil carrying one billion CSL particles CSL = copper silver lead. under an electron micrsoscope they look like chocolate maltesers or space asteroids. they are only 2-20 microns in diameter). It is these CSL spheres that get smashed and burnished into the scratches in the cylinder walls and main and conrod bearings to renew or 'restore' the engine in under 1000 miles. the engine dimensions return to approx 97% of new specifications. the engine is therefore a worn engine that has been made mechanically restored by a metal treatment process. Metal Treatments are the hottest thing in breakthrough technology. get used to them, you'll see more in the future. 100:1 savings over mechanical repairs. no downtime. disadvantages : metal treatments cannot repair broken parts (YET). thanks dave burnett Ametech Engine Restore Oil (mobile 07771-558800) http://stores.ebay.co.uk/AMETECH-ENGINE-RESTORE-OIL/ - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/AMETECH-ENGINE-RESTORE-OIL/

letter received from John Morgan of

The science looks sound to me and I can't think of any components of the M52 & M54 that could suffer from this treatment...

I assume this is an additive that must be removed with an oilchange after a few K and resume normal oil grades?

Hang about though...

That porker quote; a loose engine will always develop more power (bhp) than a tight one! I reckon theres more to that story than a can of additive.

enginerestore wrote: 30% by volum will repair any worn engine or manual gearbox or standard differential. 5% by oil volume is a good maintenance dose. Yes, you can leave RESTORE in the engine all year round to repair any damage as it happens. you don't have to drain it out. The RESTORE particles are mostly used up by the next oil change though. I always keep 5% RESTORE by oil volume in all our vehicles year round. thanks dave

Please explain how copper, lead and silver particles have the same hardness value as hardened steel used in a differential or gearbox

enginerestore wrote: I. the larger particles are first to be adsorbed and absorbed into the scratches (whereever there is heat and friction) and become burnished into the cylinder walls

Since when has it been desireable to have smooth burnished cylinder walls???  Cylinder bores are usually finish honed with a deliberate pattern of fine cross hatch scratches to retain oil, if your product does what you say you'd end up with a smooth bore similar to what you'd see in a worn engine.

Of course I could just be out of date in my thinking, the last thing I read on cylinder honing was in "Tuning for Speed" by Phil Irving, designer of the Vincent, so please feel free to enlighten me. 

Some bike racers allegedley used to urinate into an open cylinder and leave it to stand until corrosion had achieved the desired fine pitting of the cylinder wall, or maybe thats just an urban myth ;)

...the cylinder walls do not become smooth with RESTORE. I am talking about burnishing at a microscopic level. After RESTORE the honing is untouched and still clearly visible, which is of course what holds the lube on the cylinder walls.

....also, the 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, and 8 cylinder cans, are the same oil in easy to understand cans only for the American market.
In Europe we sell the 250ml can for 1000cc engines and multiples thereof, and the 1000ml (litre) cans for V8s and 4litre engines such as Range Rover and BMW and Jag etc.
For info here is an unsolicited email from a repeat ebay client Mark Corkan: mark has given me permission to post this:
Quote:
29 Nov 05 hello dave,
i received the 2 litres of engine restore today, (same as before well packed and fast post) but this time i have had a proper test for it!!!!!!right ,the last lot i got from you i used in my bmw td and my jet ski (corkan2005) remember???any way it was all good blah blah blah,
i have just purchased a VOLVO V70 98 r reg T5 2.3 TURBO WITH 235.000 MILES ON THE CLOCK, THE ENGINE IS FINE AND FEELS LIKE ITS DONE A QUARTER OF THE MILES, so whats the test you ask? well with it doing this mileage it does show slight sighs of age eg.. slightly higher revs needed to pull off, slightly high tickover.dont get me wrong it does not blow smoke and sat very well at 140mph at the weekend with no problems (private road of course) so getting to the point!!!!!i purchased 2 litres of engine restore from you, 4.5 litres of castrol oil, and a new oil filter and changed all these earlier today. right so i fired the car up and let it tick over for 15 mins or so to check all was ok... then i drove it on a steady run for 20mls at low revs, i arrived home and left it to stand NOW THE TEST, i got back in it and drove off, straight away i noticed it pulled away with no problem and lower than usual revs, lots more power through the rev range, and the engine is not as noisy it was quiet anyway but you cant hear it now (all this within 50mls) im not trying to butter you up nor am i trying to get you more attention, i clearly do not need to do this, this product really really does work, please put this letter in your listings as this should seal any speculation or uming and arrring people may have. a truly spot on product from the americans (ohh and i know you said contact after 1000mls but really there is a difference straight away) if you get anybody who doubts it pass on my email address mailto:corkan10_849@fsmail.net - corkan10_849@fsmail.net
all the best for the future
regards mark
unquote
thks dave

Please explain how copper, lead and silver particles have the same hardness value as hardened steel used in a differential or gearbox.

I ask the question again.

Karl

Hi Karl, Ok back to basics. They are not 3 distinct metal particles, they are blended to become a semi-alloy (patented) in the shape of tiny spheres. [RESTORE CSL smooth spheres, even at 20 microns diameter, easily pass through flexible paper filter elements (ie paper fibres) rated at 8 micron, (from Fram Motorcraft Unipart etc). Jagged engine particles down to 1 micron however get caught in the same filter media. ]. The CSL particles are formed into a semi-alloy using a mig type welder feeding three wires copper, lead, silver into a vacuum, the copper forms a sub-micron matrix and the silver and then the lead fill the matrix. Similar to making musket balls in a lead shot tower by pouring molten lead down a tall tower or 'chimney'. what arrives on the ground are musket balls of various sizes.

The repair is not soft and does not erode, but also does not have to be the same hardness as the steel shafts and gears. in a gearbox the CSL particles improve the ball bearings, and bronze bearings and bushings which is where the lash, whine and stickiness comes from. Broken gear teeth are broken gear teeth and RESTORE cannot repair broken parts, only worn parts. is this ok? thks dave

It all sounds very impressive, but then so does any good sales pitch. No offence intended Dave, it's just I work closely with companies that sell process additives to the chemical industry so I have learned to be sceptical.

What we need is a member of the forum/club with a worn nikasil engine to test it out on 

Not quiet, just reading with interest.

Personally I'm not convinced but then again it's your car not mine.

My adversion to oil addatives is well known on these boards and does not need to be restated.

Cheers

Simon

oilman wrote: Not quiet, just reading with interest. Personally I'm not convinced but then again it's your car not mine. My aversion to oil addatives is well known on these boards and does not need to be restated.

I've gone through "Slick-50" and "ZX-1" in past years, neither of which did my M30 engine any damage (now sitting on 155,000 miles). I'm game for a laugh where this type of thing is concerned, so I'll be testing this Ametech stuff mixed with the usual Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 at next oil change which is imminent....

-what do you expect to see when you stick this stuff in a (hopefully) perfectly decent engine???

Brucey wrote: -what do you expect to see when you stick this stuff in a (hopefully) perfectly decent engine???

God only knows, Brucey. Sure I'll let ye know if it all goes horribly wrong

I've posted chemical analysis of both slick 50 and ZX1 before.

I personally would not touch either with your bargepoles but then again as I've said before, it's not my car and I only ever use proper fully synthetic oils.

Cheers

Simon

oilman wrote: I've posted chemical analysis of both slick 50 and ZX1 before. I personally would not touch either with your bargepoles but then again as I've said before, it's not my car and I only ever use proper fully synthetic oils.

Fair comment, but at least you'll have the useful benefit of a real-life test (i.e. me) to confirm that the stuff doesn't work.

a lot of 'wonder additives' at best do no harm. So you feel pleased when your engine does not blow up, having put it in, which is, er... what it would have done anyway.....???

So the only fair test is to put it into a worn engine, measure power output, compression ratio, emissions, etc before and after.

Incidentally if these micro-particles are in the burnt oil (if it burns any, then again maybe you are not going to bother unless it does...) on a cat-equipped car I can't imagine for a moment that it will  do the cat any good whatsoever- they are easily poisoned.

cheers

How does it know when to stop "restoring"?

Cheers

Simon.

Two things happen in parallel. 1) after RESTORE is introduced the heat and pressure is reduced in the wear points so the heat attraction and burnishing effect on the RESTORE particles is reduced. 2) as miles go by the CSL particles are used up in the engine until by the next oil change there are no more left to circulate. that is why we recommend 5% RESTORE by oil volume for maintenance and up to 30% by volume for a major repair. the art is all about calculating how many particles the engine needs to completely repair itself. dave 

Call me a sceptic but two things spring to mind.

1) If this stuff is so good, why haven't the oil companies cottoned on and added it to their high mileage engine oils.

2) If it does what it says on the tin we won't bother buying new cars in years to come, we'll just let the engine repair itself.

Sorry but I just don't buy it myself.

Cheers

Simon

Hmm, not convinced.

Send me some and I'll have it chemically analysed then I'll be able to see what is actually in it.

If this product is as good as you say, I'm sure you'll have no problem obliging.

Cheers

Simon

UPDATE:

Right, a 1-litre can has just arrived on my doormat.....

Horsetan wrote: UPDATE: Right, a 1-litre can has just arrived on my doormat.....

Want to send me a spice jar full for testing just to see what it contains?

If you do then PM me and we'll organise it.

Cheers

Simon

oilman wrote: Horsetan wrote: UPDATE: Right, a 1-litre can has just arrived on my doormat..... Want to send me a spice jar full for testing just to see what it contains? If you do then PM me and we'll organise it.

Errm, got a spare spice jar?

Anything small and clean will do so that the tests are fair.

I only need a very small amount to test.

Cheers

Simon

oilman wrote: I only need a very small amount to test.

How many ml? 10ml? 50ml? 100ml?

50 to 100 ml.

Cheers

Simon

Horsey,

please do a compression test before, and any other test you can think of (dyno would be nice), same again after.

hope it goes well....

cheers

Brucey wrote: Horsey, please do a compression test before....

I don't carry compression testing gear, so would have to borrow this off my mechanic. Since he does all my oil changes anyway, this makes sense

.....and any other test you can think of (dyno would be nice), same again after....

I'm still not happy that an autobox'd car should be revved when standing. After a dyno test, I'd be needing a psychiatric test

Horsetan wrote: Brucey wrote: Horsey, please do a compression test before.... I don't carry compression testing gear, so would have to borrow this off my mechanic. Since he does all my oil changes anyway, this makes sense .....and any other test you can think of (dyno would be nice), same again after.... I'm still not happy that an autobox'd car should be revved when standing. After a dyno test, I'd be needing a psychiatric test

err, horse, the car isn't standing - technically, we know it is, but it thinks otherwise!

sleeper wrote: err, horse, the car isn't standing - technically, we know it is, but it thinks otherwise!

But...it IS standing. It's......not......going.....anywhere. Therefore it must be stationary, yes?

Yeah,

But the speedo will be reading something around 100+ MPH and the wheels will be turning prety fast.

can't get accurate figures with an auto normally because of the lack of drive from the wheels back through the transmission. But testing on the same dyno a few days or weeks apart is likely good enough for a comparison....

cheers

Just out of the box:

1 litre - sufficient to cater for a 3.5 to 4-litre engine.

Looks like the kind of packaging you'd get olive oil in. Or balsamic vinegar. Or possibly even sundried tomatoes.

Closer look at the posting box reveals the stuff seems to have been made in Belgium, a country better known for b*st*rd-strength beer, chocolates, seafood, and paedophiles.

On reading the instruction leaflet that comes with the can, I can already see that Ametech could potentially be a very expensive proposition. This is partly because it is not a "one-shot-and-forget-it for 50,000 miles" palliative like Slick-50 or ZX1; on the contrary, you are enouraged to add one can at every oil change, so if you are in the habit of changing oil every 3500 to 4000 miles like I do, then £40 for a litre of Ametech every time is going to make less sense. Having said that, it's either that or a potentially-closer engine rebuild. Oh the agony of choice.

I wanted to try Ametech, not because my engine's knackered (it had a new head at 130,000 miles, and is now on 155,000 miles total), but because I had read of Mark's encounter with Ametech. Mark, for those who don't know him, posts occasionally on the Forum as "bmw1066", a South Coast-based (Hastings or Battle, I would guess) E23 enthusiast who runs "The Red Baron", a 1981 735i. Basically, he didn't believe Ametech's claims much either, but sportingly stuck a litre down his engine, and now swears by the stuff.

(I have also bought another half-litre to test in my sister's 1993 Golf GL, which has done just over 130,000 miles on its original 1781cc engine.)

Simon ("oilman" of Opie Oils) has asked for a test measure of 100ml to be sent to him for analysis, so I've now got to find an empty jar to put it in. Should it be Olivio, or Tesco's Balsamic? Or Encona's West Indian Chilli Sauce?

The oil change on my Six is likely to be in the next fortnight, mechanic's spare time permitting, so let's see what happens. Apparently, users have to run the car gently for about 100 miles or so after adding Ametech, with another check done at 1000 miles. Not entirely sure if that's enough of a distance to notice any difference.

Ametech will be combined with my usual Castrol Magnatec 10W-40, picked up from my local Euro Car Parts warehouse for decidedly less than what Halfrauds charges for it. The new oil filter is of course BMW's standard one.

Simon O, who has clearly spent much of his entire career in the oil supply industry, has every right to be sceptical of whether these palliatives actually work. (I went through Slick-50 and ZX1 in my Six, both with no ill effect, but very little discernable improvement either, particularly in the fuel consumption department.) Simon will attempt to demonstrate through scientific analysis why Ametech does not or will not work in the way we would expect it to, whilst punters like me will attempt to be the everyday test-bed.

Horsetan,

Before you go putting this stuff in your engine, why don't you let me find out what it is made of only it may contain nasties.

Our friend has gone very quiet since I asked him to send me some.

Cheers

Simon

oilman wrote: Our friend has gone very quiet since I asked him to send me some.

I'm still trying to locate a suitable jar, Simon! Something tough enough not to get broken by the sterling efforts of the Royal Fail at Xmas....

PM me your address and I'll send you a sample jar.

Cheers,

Simon

oilman wrote: PM me your address and I'll send you a sample jar.

Excellent

chasseur wrote: Excellant indeed , big thanks to Horsetan & Oilman ,I cant wait for the results

It had better be a thorough analysis. If it contains some real horrors, then a full expert report will be needed to get one's money back.....

I could also test this on my octavia diesel - if the product is suitable for TD's?

She has 185k up at the mo, and believe me she is slacker than (think sting) roxannes giblets!!

Before you shell out your hard earned cash, let's see what this stuff is all about chemically.

Cheers

Simon

Hmm, the stuff's blue in colour, and Simon's sample jar hasn't arrived in the post yet......

It's been sent but post is slow at the mo.

Cheers

Simon

PS. Where has our Ametech friend gone?

oilman wrote: Where has our Ametech friend gone?

Which one? Mark, who used it? Or the other fella who was promoting it?

The guy who sells it.

Cheers

Simon

Greetings, yes I know this is my first post but I have been following the discussion with much interest. I come from the Toyota Supra MK3 (not that dodgily shaped bubble MK4 thing) forum, But before you all throw rotten veg at me I do have a 1989 BMW750i (with a VERY dodgy steering rack, thus SORNed).

We are having a similar discussion ( http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showthread.php?t=9400 - http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showthread.php?t=9400  if your interested) and are comming up against the same sort of questions.

I was thinking of trying this stuff myself, but was concerned about it clogging up oilways. But reading the speck, am I not right in thinking that this stuff will only work when it is struck, crushed, smashed or pressed against another surface? In which case, oil pathways would be left unaffected

Joe

theonefromthesk wrote: .....I was thinking of trying this stuff myself, but was concerned about it clogging up oilways. But reading the speck, am I not right in thinking that this stuff will only work when it is struck, crushed, smashed or pressed against another surface? In which case, oil pathways would be left unaffected

Well now, when I get to give Simon my sample  sure there will be a full analysis, properly written up.

Globulator wrote: ....I'm wondering if this additive is a simple thickening agent (viscosity modifier) - that would rather explain the bottle per oil change and quieter engine. In which case it might be easier just to sell it as such...

Perhaps that's all it really is. The automotive lubricant equivalent of cornflour....

Horsetan wrote: Globulator wrote: ....I'm wondering if this additive is a simple thickening agent (viscosity modifier) - that would rather explain the bottle per oil change and quieter engine. In which case it might be easier just to sell it as such... Perhaps that's all it really is. The automotive lubricant equivalent of cornflour....

Don't you mean sawdust?

I've not got the sample yet.

Cheers

Simon

having trouble producing the goods horsey?!?

(watch he doesn't send you the wrong sample jar either simon - get someone else to open it first!)

Erm no sample yet so basically no.

Maybe Horsetan sent it back for a refund ;)

Cheers

Simon

Hey horsey whats the deal mate???