Starting Problems
Printed From: Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum
Category: Technical & Model Specific Forums
Forum Name: BMW 3 Series
Forum Discription: This forum will deal with any issues on the BMW 3 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E90, E91 & E92)
URL: http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=14154
Printed Date: 03-May-2024 at 10:58
Topic: Starting Problems
Posted By: BeemaBoy
Subject: Starting Problems
Date Posted: 06-February-2005 at 16:01
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Hi The problem I seem to be having is that on occasion, the car refuses to start. All the red warning lights on the dash will lite up and I can hear a clicking from the starter solonoid but no engine starting noise Thanks |
. I have just replaced the ignition switch with no luck as I still have the problem. It also seems to take the car a long time to crank when I start it in the morning, about 6 seconds as the engine just turns and turns but does not start. The only way I can get it to start is to pump the accelerator. The engine starts with no problem at all when it is warn allthough I still get the problem of no activity from the starter motor, just the solonoid clicking. Has anyone got an idea of what this might be. Im guessing it means that the starter motor need a recondition. Does anyone else have any ideas?Replies:
Posted By: Simon325i sport
Date Posted: 07-February-2005 at 14:29
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Help me get this straight...you say the motor clicks and the engine doesn't turn, but then you say it turns and takes a while to start?? A clicking noise without the engine actually turning usually indicates battery problems.. ------------- 
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Posted By: BeemaBoy
Date Posted: 07-February-2005 at 18:37
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Hi Sorry about that, this is another one of the posts where I think I was hung over when I wrote it Hope that clears up what I wanted to say. Thanks |
. What I meant to say is that it occasionaly gives me the problem of the starter motor solonoid clicking and no engine turn over. Most of the time, it seems to start but takes a long time to crank. I get the problem of a dead starter motor on average about every 2 weeks. The only way I can get the car started is to push it!Posted By: Dergside
Date Posted: 07-February-2005 at 18:49
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Sounds like a dodgy solenoid inthe starter (hence the clicking), its probably not disengaging when the car starts on occassion. The short term fix is to tap it with a hammer, probably using a piece of wood or something, to disengage. The long term solution is probably a replacement starter. ------------- Now: BMW 523i SE '00, 318i SE - e91 '07, 325i Coupe '93. Prev: e46 328i SE Touring, 330Ci, 318Ci. e39 523i SE. e36 325i Coupe *2, 323i SE, 316iSE. e30 325iSE 2dr, 320i Conv, 320i 2dr, 316i. |
Posted By: Rhys
Date Posted: 07-February-2005 at 18:50
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Sounds like a dead battery, when they are nearly empty all they do is click, untill they are dead comletely. Seams like when you get it to start by pushing it may hold a bit of charge from running, enought to slowely turn it over.
Try slack fan belt (may be wrong, but usually connected to alternater) if its slipping it won't be charging properly, I had this once on a E30 316. Earthing problem? Short somewhere draining battery? Other than that, no idea. ------------- V reg Rustbucket Merc C220 Cdi estate J Reg Saab 900i 16v '63 Ford Anglia 105e deluxe R reg Honda PC50 moped.. No BMW as yet... |
Posted By: pma1ums
Date Posted: 07-February-2005 at 18:54
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me no mechanic ..but hadsame prob on dare i say a ford rs turbo i once had ..lol the selinoid .was replaced a few times and it did cure the problem ..however it was an electrical fault within the whole main starter system [not a masive prob ]but still it sounds familar with electrics rather than other probs ..so i agree with simon ...it will most probs be electrics way on ------------- its a dogs world out there |
Posted By: BeemaBoy
Date Posted: 08-February-2005 at 13:50
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Hi Thanks guys for all this advice. I will get on and check all the things you have suggested and get back to you with an update Thanks |
.Posted By: Badger 540
Date Posted: 08-February-2005 at 16:13
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Sometimes the contacts pit inside the solenoid, so the coil moves the contact plate, but it fails to make a good enough contact to turn the motor over. On my E34 starter, the solenoid is made by Bosch and is available without buying a complete new motor. Of course, it could be the motor as well, so you need to investigate all avenues. Andy ------------- Badger540 West Midlands |
Posted By: BeemaBoy
Date Posted: 09-February-2005 at 18:08
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Hi I would normally think that it is the solenoid, but this would not explain why It would start perfectly when the engine is warm. Could this have something to do with the viscosity of my oil? It is 20W50 rated. Or is it possible that when the engine is hot, the contacts expand far enough to engage the starter motor fully, but when they are cold they are too far away from the armature? Thanks |
Posted By: Peter Fenwick
Date Posted: 10-February-2005 at 05:27
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The viscosity of the oil will have nothing to do with it. The battery might not be holding it's charge very well, but after a good run, i.e engine warm, it has plenty of juice. However I had the same problem on a car and it was a faulty solenoid that liked to stick when it was cold. Once the car had warmed up it was fine. I just got a replacement starter motor from a scrappy. ------------- Entering an age of Austerity and now driving a Focus Diesel. |
Posted By: ally
Date Posted: 10-February-2005 at 06:01
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I reckon it's your battery mate, if you have a drop tester you can check it, if not a garage will do it for free. Another way to do it if you can get the top off the battery, see if it's bubbling when you try to start it, this means it's gone. Using a meter to measure the voltage will merely tell you what it is at the time. Try seeing what the voltage is before starting when cold though, if it's less than 12v then you need a new battery, it should go up to about 13 or 14 when the engine is running. ------------- E39 530i Sport Aegean Blue Edition Saab 9-5T SE Estate E36 318i loon...sold E36 323i coupe...sold |
Posted By: BeemaBoy
Date Posted: 11-February-2005 at 12:23
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Hi I have just checked up on the items you guys suggested and I have found that the belt that is on the alternator feels very loose. I'm guessing this may be causing it to slip? The problem is that the alternator tightning screw is on the last lug! Does this mean that the belt has stretched and been repeately tightned by the prevous owner and that I need a new one? And, by the way, do you guys have any idea how to get this belt off easily as is seems to be behind every other belt. Do I have to take them all of? Another funny part to the story, I started the car up this morning and it started first time and it cranked in about half a second. This leads to believe that the solenoid is stuffed and seems to work when it feels like it. I will have to replace it. A new one is SA costs about 50 pounds. Is this a good price or should I import it? Thanks |
Posted By: BeemaBoy
Date Posted: 11-February-2005 at 16:30
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Just to put forward a theory, it is possible that the battery in my car is not powerful enough to turn the engine over except when it is almost fully charged right after the engine has just run? Would anybody happen to have the BMW recommended battery size and specifications for my car? CAR = 1987 E30 320i Thanks |
Posted By: Rhys
Date Posted: 11-February-2005 at 16:42
send rubberknees50 a pm, He's now got my old '88 320i E30. I gave him all the books that went with it as well so it should say in the owners manual. I've still got the old owners manual for a 316 '85 model, not sure it will be in there but will look.  ------------- V reg Rustbucket Merc C220 Cdi estate J Reg Saab 900i 16v '63 Ford Anglia 105e deluxe R reg Honda PC50 moped.. No BMW as yet... |
BeemaBoy wrote:Posted By: Rhys
Date Posted: 11-February-2005 at 16:45
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Found it in my old owners handbook (chrome bumper model).
BMW 316, 318i 12v, 44 Amph BMW 320i, 323i 12v, 50 Amph ------------- V reg Rustbucket Merc C220 Cdi estate J Reg Saab 900i 16v '63 Ford Anglia 105e deluxe R reg Honda PC50 moped.. No BMW as yet... |
Posted By: BeemaBoy
Date Posted: 11-February-2005 at 16:58
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Cool thanks I will go down in the morning when I can see and check the amp of the battery. |
Posted By: neileg
Date Posted: 12-February-2005 at 02:57
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All of the advice here is sound, but I would add one more point. If there is a break or a poor connection in any of the heavy battery cables or the earth cables between engine and body, this will often give the symptoms you suggest. Temperature changes or movement of the engine on its mounts may make or break the connection, intermittently. Having said that, you need to get the alternator belt sorted as a priority. Then check the voltage across the battery, you should get 12 - 12.5 volts with the engine off, and 13.8-14.4 with the engine running. ------------- Cheers, Neil |
Posted By: ally
Date Posted: 12-February-2005 at 05:41
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A rule of thumb for belt tensioning, you should be able to twist it about 90 degrees with reasonable effort, this will give you an idea, but you need to see what your battery is doing first, before it gets too involved. I've been amazed in the past by engineers who have taken engines to bits just because they have stopped, without first checking for fuel in the tank, you know what I mean?? ------------- E39 530i Sport Aegean Blue Edition Saab 9-5T SE Estate E36 318i loon...sold E36 323i coupe...sold |
Posted By: BeemaBoy
Date Posted: 12-February-2005 at 14:05
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Hi To get to what Neileg is saying about a possible break in the heavy duty battery cables. Are you talking about every high power cable in the engine or just the cables running from the battery to the starter. I have just checked the voltage on the battery and with the engine running I get exactly 13.8 V. This is on the low side. Could that indicate an alternator problem, maybe with the voltage regulator on it? I have just been searching the internet for people who are having the same problems with starting, and apparantely one of them said that there mechanic informed them that it was the 'Fuel Pressure Regulator' causing a fall in pressure when the car has not been started for a while. But, it will start when the engine has just been on because the fuel has not had time to leak away from the fuel rail. He also mentioned a strong smell of fuel when the car finally started, which is exactly what I get too. Could this be the problem and is it expensive to rectify? The thing that makes this problem annoying is that when I crank the engine and it takes about 5 seconds to turnover, I can then turn the engine off and start it again (while its cold) and it will crank perfectly, taking about half a second to start. The problem that is bugging me is that I have been advised by friends to take it to an Auto Electrician and have the starter reconditioned. I could easily spend upwards of 300 pounds on this problem and still get nowhere, which is totally out of the question as Iam a poor student. But hey, even if it takes every sent i have (and she does) its worth it for the 'Sheer Driving Pleasure' that only BMW's provide. Thanks to everyone for their advice. I will start with the small, cheap solutions and work my way up and just hope I find something wrong that is easy to repair Thanks |
