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CharlesEH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: E30 M3 Buying Advice Wanted
    Posted: 24-December-2002 at 12:12

Hello,

After years of promising myself, I'm now in the position of being able to take the plunge and buy an M3. I've a budget of around £6-7k, which looks to be enough for a 2.3, although there seems to be a wide range of prices.

The car will be used most days, road use only (I have a Seven for track days), so I'm after a good reliable motor. What are specific M3 weaknesses I should be looking for? Are there major differences between early and later cars, or is condition & mileage more important? Where should I look - Autotrader, Find-it etc, or can I still find good cars in Germany?

I live west of London; are there any recommended specialists around who will carry out an inspection?

Any other hints, tips etc much appreciated!

Regards,

 

Charles

(www.charles.eaton-hennah@cendris.co.uk)

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2002 at 19:35

Hi Charles,

I do not have a buyers guide but you can still obtain E30 M3's from Germany. Use the listed link and search....

www.mobile.de

Its a german site with an english option. If you chose this option, make sure before the search you click and use the 'All Countries' in the search field.

I purchased my M3 from an independent company nr Reading.

http://www.independent-mc.co.uk/

Some advice... whatever you discuss be sure to make a note and confirm with the sales guy (usually Dave) before any deal is done.  I would also recommend and independent check of the car you chose, preferably a BMW Technician (just pay their hour rate, should be fine) or alternatively the AA.

Independent do have some nice cars....some points to look for is damage of any kind around the windscreen rubber (the whole windscreen).  The paint on the spoilers both front and back - Go for as late a model as possible with as many extras as possible (OBC, Sun roof, Leather)

If I find or have further advice, I will post.

Good Luck

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2002 at 19:43

Hi Charles,

I have found what I wanted to post...I have the original article but I am without a scanner....follow the link and select BMW M3 E30 and then click 'Artiklar' and in this section you will see BMW CAR BUYING GUIDE....

Click the pictures and all will be revealed....

Cheers Phil

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2002 at 19:43

It does help if I add the link...

http://www.bmw.b3.nu/

Phil

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-December-2002 at 09:19

I have owned these great cars for over five years now and would advise a first timer to buy in the UK. I have bought in Germany before and got great cars but I had friends there and knew what I was buying!

At present there are better buys here, also you can get the car inspected here before purchase. I would recommend Phil at Hartlake Specialist cars in Kent, an hour or so in the car well spent for you. Your budget will get a late model 215bhp model with 80k if you take your time. Look for a car with suspension and exhaust changed and don't be scared of one thats seen the odd trackday, most have!!

 

Good hunting, it'll be worth it!!

 

 

 

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-December-2002 at 11:21

listen for a rattle on start up, sounds like a diesel, a lot of people will say this is the timing chain needing replacing, it is usually just the tensioner (£50+ fitting, use one from a e36 m3 when replacing), mine has 133k miles on it with original chain.

drive the car hard into corners (becareful in wet weather!) to make sure the suspension id still OK, usual stuff to wear is front wishbone bushes, rear subframe bushes and rear shock top mounts, top mounts for the rear are very cheap and worth upgrading to e46 cab ones if doing it.

check for rust around windscreen rubber, peel it back slightly to see whats there, this can be a pain to fix if there is a lot, a little bit is sometimes expected so don;t let it put you off too much.

brakes, are they in good condition? these take a bit of money to sort out if not looked after, alternator rubber mounts wear, easy job but the alternator will not sit straight and the belt may fly off!

check all electrics are okay especially service indicator and dashboard clocks.

gearbox noise? check as this can cost about £500 to sort.

is it ticking over okay? is it pulling through the power band? expect it to really take off around 4- 4500 rpm, below this they are not very lively. the plug leads sometimes get damaged as a result of being routed through the plastic cable run on the rocker cover.

dizzy cap and rotor arms cost a fair bit, best to make sure these have a bit of life left.

check for damage along the front, underneath and on the sump, the car may have had very low suspension at some point which usually means sump damage.

also if you are using it for track use, try and get a later ( i think late 89 on) 215bhp model, these have a slightly better engine for track use and have the alloy wishbones which are slightly stronger and are recommended for track use, never mind if not, these can be fitted afterwards but will cost about £200.

rust around rear arches, back panel, around number plate lights.

definitly get an expert that knows these cars to look at them.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-January-2003 at 18:21

Charles

Can only say what you have in mind is a good idea, I have a 7 for trackdays (crossflow with clamshells!!) too and an E30 M3 for those wet days trawling/overtaking everything on the way to work

I have a 2.3 no evo model which I'm about to change for a sport evo (waiting for service history to materialise!) but you won't be disappointed. The only downside is not practically being able to fit a towbar for the impending trailor, get most fed up driving the 7 up to Oulton park every year!!

Are you in the se7en club?

Jason

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CharlesEH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2003 at 12:09

Thanks for the replies folks; all good stuff for an M3 virgin; keep them coming!

I've been told Birds in Uxbridge work with M3's. Do they have a 'rep'?

And does anyone have detailed build figures for E30 M3's?

Jason, after building 2 Caterhams, I'm currently working on a Westfield. It'll be light, screenless, initially with an old X-flow, but with either a Duratec or Blackbird tranplant after SVA. I'm on the Sevens list, but no longer a L7CC member.

Happy New Year,

 

Charles

 

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2003 at 10:12

The Westie sounds like it'llbe a bit of a wheeze when done!

I'd add a couple of points to M3 geezer, like ensure the syncro on the gearbox is in fine fettle, particularly on the 3rd to 2nd change down and less so on the 5th to 4th especially when doing quick changes - my gearbox rebuild cost in excess of a grand (mind you that was at Munich Legends who incidently have some good cars altho they may be on the pricey side). The rubber blocks between the inlet manifold and the head if faulty give rise to hunting at idle, nota bad DIY job and bit are a little over a £100, ML advised me that they can go within 2 years of replacing but mine seem fine after 2 1/2, seems that these thrashy engines vibrate a fair bit and this causes this prob.

When test driving make sure the owner lets the car warm up fully before giving it the boot, if they boot it from cold walk away - for some reasons these engines don't like it more than other less tuned ones.

As for modifications, offset front top mounts are well worth the money as is a strut brace, mine has a short shift too but would probably not go down that route again as the gear change seems to be fairly stiff and notchy afterwards. Uprated brakes don't hurt either, parts from Eurocarparts or the like, particularly pads are pretty naff, mine has grooved discs and Pagid fast road pads which are pretty effective. I've had some problems in the past with minor oil leaks, cork sump gaskets seem pretty pants but can be replaced with paper ones (not so DIY as the front subframe needs dropping to get at one of them- there's 2 BTW) and the the rocker cover gaskets (DIY) and cam cover gasket are an easy job but can give the impression of a leaky head gasket to the uninitiated.

Decent tyres are a sign of a car being well looked after, you don't appear to be able to stint on the bills for these cars so a big wad of bills would be a good sign too especially as the mileage starts to creep up. Not wishing to teach you how to suck eggs but the last owner has paid some of the big bills means you won't have to. Post 100k miles the ones to have done are possibly a head rebuild (mine had a broken valve spring), something done with the timing chain (either tensioner only or the full bifter - (£1500 potentially) and the gearbox. Incidently 100k seems to be a watershed for these bills and if all the other history matches you'll be fine for another 100k.

By the way mine's for sale to finance a sport evo! Lots of miles (155k) but all the bills are there (£10k over the last 2 1/2 years including servicing and tyres etc), I don't wish to use this thread to sell it particularly but if you fancied taking it for a spin to see how they should be drop me a line. I'm in Buckingham or Oxford most ofthe time. Will throw in a link to some pics if I can remember where on the net they are!

As for specialists I can't comment on Birds but I use Moseley Motorsin Telford - bit of a trek but definitely worth the hassle. Alternatively for example the Dealer close towhere I work (Stevenage) has a techy who has an E30 M3 so if I need stuff done would consider letting him loose on it.

One last point on the aircon, as previosly mentioned the thrashing/vibratey nature of these cars can break the bracket that holds the compressor on (has happened twice to me so I've left it off now) In my opinion the aircon isn't that good anyway so I wouldn't be too fussed if the spec of the car I was looking at didn't have it. Electronic damper control (EDC) is another one of these, those that have it admit that when it goes wrong it's an expensive fix but when working is a good toy to have. Any suspension upgrade seems to be a good thing, whether it's a fairly basic Eibach/Bilstein kit (£600 odd) or something more fancy like Schnitzer or Hartge (£1000 plus) they all bring the improvements you would expect.

Better do somework now I s'pose

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2003 at 10:16

pics :http://uk.photos.yahoo.com/bc/jason_boud/lst?.dir=/My+Photos/M3+related+stuff&.src=ph&.view=

One other thing the front seats can look a little tatty after a while but you can still buy the covers and/or fabric from BMW, I've had my front seats recovered at a very reasonable cost and the improvement is most impressive.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2003 at 11:58

jus a few more points after reading jaseb's comments, munich legends seem to be quite pricey, lets face it £10,500 for a d reg nothing special m3 with rot around the windscreen! i don't mean to give them a bad name but they really do need to get real.

try bexley motor works in bexley heath kent for servicing (0208 304 9797) nigel and jags are a friendly bunch that know there m3's inside and out, they also do a short shift kit for £40 + fitting, it isn;t the shortest kit, but it isn;t notchy like the others. and at the price is very very good. also heard moseley motorsport are very good.

jus fitted the neg camber top mounts from bmw (called crash repair mounts as well), i have these with sparco front and rear strut braces and they make a real improvement, my car is running around -2 degrees camber now.

as for brakes try to stay clear of x-drilled discs, i have seen these crack on the m3, i use genuine discs with ferrado ds2500 track pads, these are awesome and don;t need warming up, the ds3000 are good for track only, they corrode alloys and need a lot of warming up.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2003 at 14:14

Mr Geezer,

How much are the rear strut braces?! Do they make much difference, I mean I can see how the front ones would with all the force that goes through the top mounts, to be honest I hadn't even considered rear ones (mainly due to ignorance on their availability...). Sounds like a new upgrade on the cards

Elsewhere on this forum I've had a gentle pop at ML on service issues as well as prices, I won't be going back unless I'm desperate.

Nigel Moseley may have some cheaper cars too, don't try and buy the sport evo though please as I WANT it!!! I'mpretty sure he has a couple kicking about including mine soon with a bit of luck and a following wind.

Oh and one more tiddler to mention - cat 1 alarm or better would be a good one to have, I would imagine most M3's have these already but get the fitting certificate to make sure, your insurance company might want to see it - mine did.

Oh go on then, one more, I got a wickedly competitive insurance policy from www.elephant.co.uk, £600 fully comp with protected no claims and a £350 xs and it needn't be garaged.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2003 at 16:53

the rear strut bars i think off the top of my head around £65 +vat, maybe less, they're more expensive as they only come in alloy, they can be a pain to fit, not sure if they make a huge difference, i got mine as i am fitting leda coilovers soon and the bar helps with the stresses going across the strut tower at the rear which wasn't designed to support the weight of the car originally.

back to ML, i think it a shame about them, they are just down the road from me and they seem like a nice bunch of people, they just don;t seem to want to be competative anymore, i think they were good a few years ago, but the m3's aren;t worth the same sort of money anymore and people won;t spend so much on them, i've also heard a lot of people say that they have mis-diagnosed problems before, i suppose this could happen to anyone, i'm just still choked that they wanted £300 (may have been +vat as well) for a pair of fibreglass 1991 dtm mirror replicas, i can get these for £120 elsewhere and for £220 i can get carbon fibre ones which are excellent quality.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-January-2003 at 20:11

To add my views to the great E30 M3 buying situation. I purchase a 1987 M3 from Independant Jan 2002, paid £8k, 93,000 km on the clock very clean. Very pleased with, did not get car inspected !!!!! No problems. Took car to Munich Legends, Barney took car out for a VERY quick spin, he was impressed, subsquently got ML to do inspection 2, approx £800 including fitting new water pump and prop shaft coupling. Car drives like new, so would recommend them. They seem to know there stuff.

October of last year i found for sale a 1990 EVO SPORT, this time got it inspected by ML, within 5 minutes was told NOT to buy the car, the car was only on the ramps for 30minutes and atleast 22 problems were found without looking at engine or drive train. I did not buy it, and i am sure my car drove better anyway!!!!!!

My advice ALWAYS get the car inspected.You have been warned!!!!!

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