M3 Droplinks

Pattern parts are parts that match BMW ones, but aren't manufactured by BMW. Non Original Equipment Manufacturer in other words.

Just a point. If you are going to buy standard drop
links buy from BMW. DON'T buy there pattern parts.

I've had 3 break clean in half at the Ring!!

I think that Pooky's point is that, on level ground, there should not be any pre-tension in the ARB unless something else is wrong, As the ARB rotates in the chassis bushes it should not be under tension with equally loaded suspension.

I recognise that if the ride height is lowered their may (possibly) be a case for a different length of drop link to maintain the ARB position and its angle to the drop link.

Also the "uprated" ones will no doubt have different lining material to the ball joints to help pass more vibration through to the body of the car.

Edit to add: and Turner say you only need one so presumably you can fit a standard one on the other side!

Edited by Lancastrian

Beemer Fan wrote: Pooky wrote: As Dave is implying you shouldn't need an adjustable drop link with a standardish car. This droplink even uses the same ball joints as the standard part. As said earlier it's a stick with two balljoints (there is no rubber to be found), if you wan't to pay more for a different stick with the same balljoints on it then that's up to you. From Whiteline: Spherically designed for anti-roll bar use, they feature a high misalignment design allowing up to 20 degrees of movement and sealing cups on each side of the ball to minimize contamination from water road grime and dust. KLC38 is designed to convert the plastic / rubber OE link on the front. KLC39 replaces the OE ball type link as found on SIi's with a heavy duty spherical bearing version. Universal kits are also available which are adjustable for length and angle and are designed to replace OE versions. Please note this product will be relatively noisy compared with a nylon lined OE ball. ..these dont cost anymore than the originals

I'm completely confused. There is nothing wrong with the standard OE front droplink. It is two spherical joints connected by a solid rod of steel. Just what do you expect to be uprated?

And the whiteline parts you quote are nothing to do with the M3 front droplink anyway.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z299_KLC39.pdf

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z298_KLC38.pdf

I'm not trying to be arsey I just want to understand what you think is wrong with the current part and what you think will be better by fitting an aftermarket part?

Edited by Pooky

Whiteline ones work out the same for me if i import them plus i have adjustability if i need it.. I'll try them and let you know how i get on..

Pooky wrote: As Dave is implying you shouldn't need an adjustable drop link with a standardish car. This droplink even uses the same ball joints as the standard part. As said earlier it's a stick with two balljoints (there is no rubber to be found), if you wan't to pay more for a different stick with the same balljoints on it then that's up to you.

From Whiteline: Spherically designed for anti-roll bar use, they feature a high misalignment design allowing up to 20 degrees of movement and sealing cups on each side of the ball to minimize contamination from water road grime and dust. KLC38 is designed to convert the plastic / rubber OE link on the front. KLC39 replaces the OE ball type link as found on SIi's with a heavy duty spherical bearing version. Universal kits are also available which are adjustable for length and angle and are designed to replace OE versions. Please note this product will be relatively noisy compared with a nylon lined OE ball.

..these dont cost anymore than the originals

Matt T wrote: Dannyboy wrote: excuse the ignorance but what would the adjustability do for you? Adjust the tension of the ARB

And now you might ask "what tension"...

In a nutshell when the car is sitting on level ground
there shouldn't be any 'pre-load' in the ARB, by that i
mean the ARB is doing nothing.
If there is some preload due to inconsistancy in
suspension parts, body twist or whatever in can
cause the car to handle different when turning right
as opposed to turning left.

You only need one adjuster.

The proper way to connect the ARBs is with the full
weight of the car on level ground NOT when up in the
air on jack stands or whatever.

excuse the ignorance but what would the adjustability do for you?

Robbie Bradford wrote: Darragh, www.turnermotorsport.com do an adjustable drop link if thats any help.

Perfect, just what i'm lookin for!

Thanks Robbie.

Darragh, www.turnermotorsport.com do an adjustable drop link if thats any help.