Your Oil Questions answered

Simon,

My 2004 BMW 320i saloon drank 0.5 - 1 litre of oil in the first 3000 miles. What is the best oil to top this up with? Does it matter if a 5-40 is mixed with a 0-40?

Cheers.

Simon,

Thanks for the reply. I've checked and although the screw tops are sealed, there's no foil once the tops are off.

Any further advice re shelf life?

Thanks

Caesar

hi simon,

                 just a note to thankyou, I received 10 litres of silkolene pro s 10w 50 24 hours after placing an order, you certainly know your oils!  and litre for litre worked out cheaper than castrol rs.

will be placing future orders, thanks again.   mark

SundayJumper wrote: They have the exact spark plugs listed in my user manual, so I'm good with that, is the oil any good ?

What grade is it and what does it say on the bottle?

Made under licence jobber I think for Audi. Is it BMW Approved or anything approved, VW spec?

Cheers

Simon

Pleased about the plugs though

Hi,

First off, my car is a 1994 M3 (i.e. 3 litre).

I've been recommended / suggested Quantum Synta Gold.  However, I was mainly put off when I went to G'n'S [1] to get some spark plugs, and on asking what oil I needed got the answer "well, synthetic probably, but it's up to the owner's preference".  Oh, FFS.  If I had a preference I wouldn't be asking you...

They have the exact spark plugs listed in my user manual, so I'm good with that, is the oil any good ?

Steve.

[1] Reading branch, it's tiny, I got too used to having the Heathrow one close to home.

  hi simon,

                            I'd just like to say what a fantastic service you are providing, many of my queries have been answered already on reading these posts and i'm going to be taking two unopened cans of castrol rs 10w 60 back and obtaining silkolene r 15w 50 for my m5.

could you suggest a suitable oil for our 96 land rover discovery 3.9 v8 petrol(also lpg converted) general driving conditions also towing a caravan, land rover state 6000 mile oil service intervals for some reason?

                                        cheers  mark

Hi Oilman....

I have a few questions;

1) I have an '87 model 635CSi with 147k on the clock. It does not burn oil (but it leaks a little bit...). I presently use a very ordinary 15-40W API SJ spec oil in it, which I aim to change with the filter every 3000 to 4000 miles (about 9 months motoring- it is a second car). I do a mix of short (~12 miles) and long (~100 + miles) driving. Q. would I see any real benefit from using a 'better' oil in this engine?

2) What oil do I need in my diff- and will it vary if it is LSD or not?  

3) I have heard tell that changing to some oils is a 'one time only' thing in that the additive package (?) in some oils can cause seals to swell etc. Going back to the original oil then causes leaks, burning oil down the valve stems etc. Is this an old wive's (or old petrolhead's) tale?

4) I have seen retro-fit bypass oil filtration systems advertised, and I am considering fitting one to my land rover (2.5 200 TDi). They claim improved filtration down to <3micron (c.f. ~10 micron with a conventional filter, vs typical film thickness in a shell bearing ~3micron), that they remove water, and that it is possible to use the same oil for about 50000 miles.

 I should have thought that the improved filtration might yield benefits, but that the additive package would be exhausted, and the oil would have sheared down well before then, but what do you think? Do such systems have anything to offer more performance oriented engines like those fitted to BMWs?

Thanks in advance

cheers

 Hi Simon, Thankyou for reply, and you are correct.!! H/book suggests choice of 10/30 , 10/40 , 15/40 . or extreme 5/20 , 5/30.Castrol TWS was used at the change which is a 10/60 .

 Can this grade of oil be detrimental to the working of this M Engine, in particular the Vanos defects, believed by many to be Oil related??.

What is your reccomendation for grade please.??

 [/QUOTE]

Why? Are the majority of american engines significantly different from european/janpanese engines?. Also what about all the japanese/european cars imported into the states, surely their requirements are the same as they would be for us.

[/QUOTE]

Because "most" American engines are fairly crude/low tech V8's and the like that have low top RPM and are not as highly stressed.

Japanese and European cars imported to the states will be using European oils supplied by their Dealers and some retail outlets.

Cheers

Simon