Oil for E30 M3 |
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 05-July-2004 at 12:39 |
Depends what oils you are referring to: Silkolene PRO S and PRO R = 10000-12000 miles recommended drain in a supercharged car! Cheers Simon
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 05-July-2004 at 12:41 |
Due to a lot of questions like "do I sell these oils?" Tha answer is yes, Castrol, Silkolene, Fuchs, Mobil and Total! MY CONTACT DETAILS: OPIE OILS - Simon Barnard Tel: 01209 215164 Fax: 01209 314019 Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk Tech Specs: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm FOR PRICE LIST, PLEASE EMAIL ME. Cheers Simon
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 06-July-2004 at 19:06 |
Bump
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 07-July-2004 at 18:26 |
This thread seems to be slipping downd the list and it shouldn't be considering the info it contains. This makes for interesting reading too as I have been recommending PRO S 5w-40 to many of you. Wouldn't advocate 0w-20 though! |
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 09-July-2004 at 12:54 |
Quiet in here! Cheers Simon |
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kevin
Bavarian-Board Contributor Joined: 29-November-2002 Location: Camberley, Surrey Status: Offline Points: 3189 |
Posted: 09-July-2004 at 13:08 |
I guess once you have convinced everybody that Silkolene Pro S 5w-40 is the way to go then that is the end of the discussion.
Maybe like me they will wait for the next oil change before ordering. |
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Kevin
'04 E46 330Ci Convertible '08 E61 535d Touring (TorqueMeister Towbarge) ’95 E34 M5 ’89 E30 M3 (Cecotto) |
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 11:58 |
Thanks but don't forget all these products which are also BMW Approved Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL 5w-40 Castrol Formula SLX 0w-30 (Longlife 01) Castrol RS Power 0w-40 (Longlife 01) Mobil 1 0w-40 (Longlife 01) Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL 0w-30 (Longlife 01) Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL 5w-50 Fuchs Titan Unic Ultra 10w-40 Plenty to choose from I would say but only PRO S and PRO R are "ester". For a price list please email me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Tech Specs here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm Cheers Simon
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lancelotII
Really Senior Member II Joined: 24-November-2002 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 853 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 12:02 |
Simon, those seem fine for general use, what about trackday mostly, and gentle road use ?
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 12:31 |
Trackdays, use PRO S or PRO R products, it's belt and braces. 5w-40, 10w-50 or 15w-50. Cheers Simon |
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M3Nally
Really Senior Member II Joined: 28-May-2003 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1302 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 13:23 |
Simon
For 1988 Evo2 then would you recommend Fuchs Titan 10W 40. I currently use Magnatec 10w 40. Cheers Kevin |
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Eamo
Moderator Group Joined: 13-May-2003 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 3450 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 13:25 |
I thought I read somewhere that 5/40 oils were too thin for cold stratups on the s14 engine???
anyone confirm/deny this?? |
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 14:11 |
Believe me, a thin oil is better at start up so long as you don't compromise on the top end, minimum sae 40. What you want is good circulation where 75% of the engine wear occurs. BMW recommend 5w-40 for "all year round" use. Cheers Simon
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Eamo
Moderator Group Joined: 13-May-2003 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 3450 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 14:12 |
thanks simon
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 14:13 |
M3Nally Yes or Silkolene XTR 10w-40. I would still consider 5w-40 for "all year round" though. Cheers Simon
Edited by oilman |
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M3Pilot
Really Senior Member I Joined: 31-October-2002 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 340 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 17:40 |
Do you do any Ester based gear oils?
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 12-July-2004 at 18:13 |
Yep, just one. (pretty rare stuff these days!) Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90 Spec here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm Cheers Simon
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 16-July-2004 at 11:06 |
Bump for this thread. Cheers Simon |
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oilman
Bavarian-Board Forum Sponsor Joined: 28-June-2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1053 |
Posted: 20-July-2004 at 22:24 |
I'm posting this as it will probably be of interest to those wishing to learn more about synthetics. It's heavy going because it was written by a Chemist not a Salesman but, it's worth reading. Building a good oil. It is impossible to make a good 5w-40 or even 10w-40, using only mineral oil. The base oil is so thin, it just evaporates away at the high temperatures found in a powerful engine that is being used seriously. Although there are chemical compounds in there to prevent oil breakdown by oxygen in the atmosphere (oxidation) they cannot adequately protect vulnerable mineral oil at the 130 degC plus sump temperatures found in a hard working turbocharged or re-mapped engine. The answer to this is synthetics. They are built up from simple chemical units, brick by brick so as to speak; to make an architect designed oil with properties to suit the demands of a modern engine. The synthetic myth The word “synthetic” once meant the brick by brick chemical building of a designer oil but the waters were muddied by a court case that took place in the Most lower-cost “synthetic” or “semi-synthetic” oils use these “hydrocracked” mineral oils. They do have some advantages, particularly in commercial diesel lubricants but their value in performance engines is marginal. TRUE synthetics are expensive and in basic terms there are three broad catagories, each containing many types and viscocity grades:- PIB’s (Polyisobutanes) These are occasionally used as thickeners in motor oils and gear oils, but their main application is to suppress smoke in two-strokes. The TWO important ones are: ESTERS All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic “esters” and have been for more than 50 years but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils around 20 years ago. Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants work well from -50 degC to 200 degC, and they have an added benefit. Due to their structure, “ester” molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non pressure-fed film has to hold the surfaces apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops, or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film. Synthetic Hydrocarbons or PAO’s (Poly Alpha Olefins) These are, in effect, very precisely made equivalents to the most desirable mineral oil molecules. As with “esters” they work very well at low temperatures and equally well at high temperatures, if protected by anti-oxidants. The difference is, they are inert and not polar. In fact, on their own they are hopeless “boundary” lubricants, with less load carrying ability than a mineral oil. They depend entirely on the correct chemical enhancements. It is a fact that “PAO’s” work best in combination with “esters”. The “esters” assist load carrying, reduce friction and cut down seal drag and wear, whilst the “PAO’s” act as solvents for the multigrade polymers and a large assortment of special compounds that act as dispersants, detergents, anti-wear and anti-oxidant agents, and foam suppressants. Both are very good at resisting high-temperature evaporation, and the “esters” in particular will never carbonise in turbo bearings even when provoked by anti-lag systems. So, in conclusion, Ester gives the best protection and Ester/PAO combinations have great benefits because they work well together. They are more expensive but worth it if you wish to do the best for your engine. Cheers Simon |
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UweM3
Moderator Group Joined: 11-February-2003 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5445 |
Posted: 21-July-2004 at 08:37 |
I always thought this is a non commercial forum. Other people get banned for a month if they try to sell a M-Power car in a M-power forum.
BTW does anyone of you keep in mind that we have a speedlimit here? So how many times do you really stress you engine?? (not talking about trackdays) I am sure the S14 will run fine on Olive oil when crusing around with 70mph. Just my opinion. |
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E61 520d, slow and buzzy but my wallet likes the mpg.....
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Jonners
Really Senior Member II Joined: 23-September-2003 Status: Offline Points: 601 |
Posted: 21-July-2004 at 13:21 |
Uwe - you're probably right - once cruising down the motorway the oil spec is less important, but most engine wear occurs on start up, especially when cold - that's where the benefit of higher spec oils pay dividends
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