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    Posted: 23-March-2011 at 21:57

Some of you may have read in the past about my engine not always able to hit the red line and often cutting the power at about 3500-4000 rpm which is most troublesome, especially when trying to overtake.

The only real line of enquiry I've been able to follow is the fact I had it plugged in and got the fault code for bad signal at crank sensor. Had the sensor replaced but the fault reappeared. It seemed a little intermittent and so then decided to try and get the wiring replaced. I managed to get a large section done but the fault still came back. I had also thought about the front pulley being at fault as I know the centre rubber damper can perish.

BUT...... I did a scheduled service on the car last weekend and as a matter of course I decided to take the sump off and check the oil pump bolts. I have read many times of them working loose and people finding a few in the sump.

Lo and behold I found 5 in the sump. Got it all sorted, bolted it all back together, new oil filter and filled with oil. Upon driving it home I decided to give her a blast down a 60mph road and took her up to 4000 rpm expecting the usual engine cut out (feels like someone stamping on the brake pedal) but she kept going right up to the red line! Not completely unusual as the problem seems to be there only 90% of the time so I have managed the odd red line. The thing is, generally the engine feels a little more responsive and I have managed to red line it every day on both journeys to and from work.

It's like driving a new car, infact, it feels a lot like when I first bought it and I got the smile across my face that only a V8 can deliver!

I have 3 theories; either it is/was:

1. A wiring fault, which by dropping the sump down I've moved the wire to the sensor causing a better connection?

2.  Perhaps the oil pump missing 5 bolts caused a slight vibration which in turn caused the damper to vibrate so the sensor couldn't read it at high speeds?

3. The oil pump wasn't keeping the chain 100% true and therefore caused a minute timing issue?

Any thoughts?

Mike


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kbannon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-March-2011 at 23:39
Whatever the cause, congrats on the new car 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-March-2011 at 08:13

Interesting.

It's always very satisfying that you have been able to fix the fault yourself, plus get it performing like it should.  Well done.

I was going to say low oil pressure, but I can't think that would affect the redline issue, unless there is some form of electronic oil pressure control that retards the ignition?

I'm thinking that a few oil pump bolts missing will mean that the two havles of the pump aren't sealing and you aren't able to maintain full oil pressure....

What bolts was it that were loose?

Although was it pump mounting bolts or was it bolts that hold together the pump?

Looking at the pump chain drive it will be a seperate short chain that drives the pump rather than the same chain that drives the cam shafts, it could be possible that a loose pump caused some form of vibration that affected the cam chain drive, although by their nature, I wouldn't have expected a chain drive to carry a vibration effect thru to make the timing miss.

Anhyoo, as K says, well done on the new car

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-March-2011 at 14:06
Looks like the bolts that hold the pump
together. You can see them just on the rear
of the pump right side of the picture. It was
the lower 5 bolts. I just wanted to get to the
bottom of the mystery because i have a
horrible feeling it's going to creep back!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter Fenwick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-March-2011 at 15:52
5 bolts! How many are there in total?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-March-2011 at 16:06

How did you find taking the sump off?

Ususally these things are held in place with a million and one bolts and the front axle cross member gets in the road for taking the sump off or at least being able to withdraw the sump pan over the axle.  I looked at replacing the sump on my Senator as the plug was cross threaded, but I would have had to drop the front axle to do it....after removing something like 24 bolts from the pan to block.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-March-2011 at 09:58
Hmm, good fix - probably!

Will be v interesting to see if the problem comes back, as many people including me have had the 4k cutout issue, and have assumed it was the pulley damper (most haven't replaced it iirc - I know mine started behaving ok so I left it).  I like your theory about missing oil pump bolts causing vibration, but it's a pretty small mass...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-March-2011 at 22:39

Andrew, sump was easy to come off, just a shed load of bolts, very achy arms after!

Lo and behold, the issue is back! I'm now wondering if it could be a wiring issue. I disturbed the crank sensor wire when I took the sump off so I'm thinking about replacing the whole wiring from ECU to sensor.

Mike


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-April-2011 at 15:03

D'oh!

Never mind Mike, at least you prevented something nasty happening with the missing oil pump bolts.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-April-2011 at 18:08
Damn - so looks like a coincidence. 

Are you thinking of replacing that pulley?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff TT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-September-2011 at 21:26
Wow have been having this exact issue for over 12 months and have tried all sorts, a few weeks ago I had to change the water pump ( noisy bearing)  after bleeding the air out etc went on a test drive and was amazed to find the 4k rpm struggle was gone completely!! have had a fortninght of no holding back at 4k rpm.....BUT........ today it was back, however only after I had removed the airbox/ ducting and air flow meter, it has got to be a cable issue...just got to find which one.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-September-2011 at 08:24

Jeff I take it your beast hasn't thrown up any error codes?

Mine had a an engine management fault and once a code was read it pointed to running lean.  So that can mean anything but BMW diagnosed it to be one of two broken cylinder head diaphragm valves mounted on the top of each cylinder head.  Parts were only £10 each but transformed the engine from resembling a 3 cylinder diesel cement mixer motor back to normal.
 
Just to point out the it could be a small air leak causing it to run lean but not enough to fire off a code.
 
Your engine, Jeff, will have a diaphragm valve at the rear of the inlet manifold which can cause the symptoms you've described.  I've heard this being an issue on the E32 with the same engine.
 
Or it could be anything...
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