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straight_6 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 27-December-2009 at 13:06

chaps,

My e39 touring cut out a few days ago coming back from south yorkshire, the car was running perfect and was eating the miles with no problems. However when I stopped at a service station the car cut out. I started it again and it coughed over but I noticed a small missfire when accelerating up from idle. I noticed the performance had dropped away and I could not get rid of the missfire. I managed to get back home and left it a few hours. When it had cooled down, it started as normal and the driving was also back to normal. However the same thing has happened again today. I parked the car up after a 20 min drive and as I came to a halt, it cut out again. Now there is a small missfire between 800 and 1000 revs. Once the car gets past 1k rev mark the missfire dissappears however I can feel the car aint running normal and the gear change is also struggling. I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump on its way out as its affected the performance hence the gear change but is there a way of checking this?. Also could it be one of the coil packs is playing up?. The car is a 528i touring 97 R with 147k on the clock auto box. Any suggesstions would be appreciated.

Sorry for the long post.

Imran.   

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Andrew Rolland View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-December-2009 at 18:19

Could be a coil yes, or a spark plug, 02 sensor, air leak, maf, cam sensor, crank sensor or one of the air valves i.e. the cylinder head/block breather valves which is know as the PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation system.

I had this on my E60 recently and like you had my suspicions as to what it was but of course it wasn't anything like what I thought initially.

You will need a garage to plug it in to diagnose the fault for you properly.  Anything else will just be guess work at this stage.

Keep us posted though.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote straight_6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-December-2009 at 21:18

cheers Andy,

Just to add to the confusion the ASC (stability control) light has come on and will not go off. Also the car will not start the first time, it takes another attempt before it gets going. Do you think it may be a wheel sensor causing the problem?. Also the MAF and CAM sensor where replaced about 2 months ago with Siemens VDO Original Parts and the Spark Plugs with BMW original's approx 1 year ago. Could these fail so soon?. 

Imran



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2009 at 17:53

I doubt very much that a wheel sensor would cause the first problem.  Sounds like you have two seperate problems.

It's unlikely that the new parts you have fitted would have failed so soon.

I would take it for a diagnostic check atleast that will pick up the ABS/ASC problem.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote straight_6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2009 at 19:15

Just had a mobile diagnostic chap come out and plug his computer into the car. It has thrown up 3 codes as follows:-

1) Crankshaft Position Sensor (code 27 i think)

2) Throttle valve Potentiometer (code 40)

3) Pre Throttle valve control (code 38)

The man said the 2nd and 3rd codes are connected with crank sensor, as soon as this is replaced the ECU should reset and the car should be working fine. If not then the codes will need to be reset. Ill get a new crank sensor and get it fitted. He checked out the ASC but dipically it has not shown up any faults. Can anyone reconfirm if the Crank sensor would cause the other two faults and if replacing the sensor is a hard job. Also if faults codes 2 and 3 are parts which can be replaced.

Cheers Imran.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stone-IslandV8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2009 at 20:56
IF replacement doesnt cure this then get them to check your cyclone/oil separator valve as can cause similar symptoms.
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Past; E39 540T/E46 328CI/ E39 535/ E39 520/ E36 M3/ E36 318iS jet black Mtech/ E46 320d/ E36 318iS diamond black/ E36 318iS blue Mtech kit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote straight_6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-December-2009 at 21:27

Could anyone tell me what the Throttle valve Potentiometer does and where abouts this is located. I have checked the euro car parts website and this is a part which can be replaced, but it does not show an image. Also could you please tell me where the cyclone/oil separator valve is and what it looks like. I would check the real oem website but i dont know what im looking for.

Thanks for the help lads

Imran

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stone-IslandV8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-December-2009 at 12:28
Cyclone valve;4
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DP62&mospid=47 558&btnr=11_1487&hg=11&fg=15

Works to maintain crankcase vacuum/ventilation system. Can malfunction giving eratic issues, or it can go completely and suck up all your oil...you should hear a fart noise when accelerating if its gone...its got a rubber bellows type arrangement inside and this splits.

Check this from BMW
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/M52TU_Throttle_Valve.pdf

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-December-2009 at 15:28

Throttle potentiometer (pot) is very similar to a dimmer switch you would use to control lights in your house.

It is attached to the other end of the throttle butterfly valve.  When you press the throtle (and I am assuming your E39 does not have a throttle cable) a electrical motor turns the butterfly valve to alter the air flow into the inlet manifold.  To allow the ECU to "know" where the throttle valve is i.e. fully shut, a bit open, a wee bit more open, or fully open a pot is turned at the same time.  As this is turned the electrical resistance changes which the ECU can pick up on therefore knowing how much the throttle is open.

The ASC fault could well be linked to this as the ASC cuts the throttle and applies the brakes to control any wheel spin.  If there is a fault in the throttle electronics the ASC system will not be able to cut the throttle so throw all the toys out of the pram and refuses to work and tells you by putting the warning light on.

The cyclone valve is the proper name for the PCV system I was feebly describing earlier, cheers John.

HTH

Andrew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote straight_6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-January-2010 at 21:20

lads just a quick update, since the chap reset the ecu the car has been running normal. I had to run the car first for a couple of miles until it settled. I am gonna run the car and change the Crank Sensor when the weather clears. I checked with a mate of mine who works for BMW and he said if the crank sensor plays up then it will upset the other sensors which affect the vehicles running. Once the sensor has been replaced the ECU will pick up the correct readings. He also said the Crank sensor is the most common part to go wrong other than the POT.

Ill keep you posted. Thanks for the help lads.

Imran

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