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Madrab View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Tight Gearstick When Cold.. E30
    Posted: 09-December-2003 at 13:48

Must agree with JWalk.

I have yet to see any oil advertised that is guaranteed to last for 150,000+ miles which some BMW's have reached and surpassed.

I must ask though were can I get a good quality semi-synth gearbox oil for a fiver for 1.5ltrs?? Cheapest I found was around £6 for half a litre!!

Rob

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-December-2003 at 01:03

OK guys, the BT phone directory for Bolton has the biggest 'T' section in it than any other area...LOL . eg. t'internet, th'Octagon Theatre.

@Paul: Yup, the Haynes manual says change it as you said, so does the gearbox expert who writes articles for Total BMW; Neil (or the BoxDoctor from Darlington, as known to his mates on our forum), but BM dealers say it is in for life.

IMO: there is no lube that can perform well for the life of the engine or gearbox, plus it only costs a fiver to change, the cost of half a dozen pies..LOL.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2003 at 20:30

Dave328i

Are you sure about the oil being in the box for life. My service manual states to change it every secong SpecII service, about 72k miles?

cheers Paul

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2003 at 19:21

A tell thee!



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David S Banbery [L/20973]

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2003 at 13:53
that sounds proper bo!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2003 at 00:01

I had the same problem as Baz with my E36 318i, only covered 70K miles, but no motorway miles, just been around the local town so lots of gear changes for the miles covered; box wouldn't even entertain going into first on these cold mornings.

Yesterday I had the clutch changed (for a Sach item) and transmission oil changed, now first is no problemo, gearchange is sweet as a nut.

Garage kept the old clutch and showed me; there wasn't much to look at i.e. no apparent faults, blackened faces to plates and the splines may have been a bit gummed up and not flexing.

I highly recommend the garage to anyone in NW England, RAC and AA both tow cars in to this place:

Railway Motors

228 Church Street

Adj. Westhoughton Railway Station

Westhoughton

Bolton BL5 3QW

Tel.: 01942 812539

The cost for any 4 pot clutch, fitted with 2 year warranty is only £150 plus VAT and they changed the box oil for another fiver, BARGAIN!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2003 at 09:28

Baz,

I would make sure that they're not quoting for an engine service cause I've never heard of rockers in the box 

Sounds like a band 

Cheers

Rob

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 22:24

Rob,

Confused me too, don't know if anyone can help us out My clutch was replaced about 12000 miles and feels fine when warm as such. Will ask when the cars goes in for service.

Baz



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 14:12

The E36 box oil is in for 'life' and doesn't need changing. The final drive diff does need changing every so often.

I used Mobil1 in the box but the synchros weren't getting engough friction to work properly making difficult changes, so I used Redline MTF (as 75W 80 but also compare to a 10W engine oil) (Demon Tweeks) this eased it, but still difficult when cold getting into 1st in the morning. Does feel like the clutch isn't depressing properly - might try and renew/bleed the clutch fluid.

But I used Mobil 1 75W 90 in the final drive.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 13:37

Oooo,

Your quite right Dbanbery, never done an oil change on the BMW up to now when the box was in the car and was applying the process for other boxes that don't have a drain plug.

Easier process to do all round then. 

I used Red Line Manual Transmission Lube (MT90). It's an American product but they swear by it if you can get it. My cousin lives in the UAS and had it sent over, though I believe Mobil do a good one to. Thing to remember is that you need to use an API GL4-5 (quality)75W80/90 quoted oil to give proper protection. I could use the Redline synthetic as I had new seals with the rebuild but may cause slight leakage if seals not new. It also gives better cold shift performance too so the recommendation goes

Just browse about the web, loads of info on oil recommendations for boxes

Rob



Edited by Madrab
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 12:15
when you were talking about taking out driveshaft was that on e30? because mine actually has two plugs, one on the side that checks the level and puts the oil in, and the other that drains it. its piss easy to change all you have to do is drain it completely and then replace the plug on the bottom, and then fill the box up using the other hole. it should take about 2 1/2 litres of oil... i can check out what oil to use as well.... its all in your haynes manual. i have never done anything to my box apart from replace oil....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 11:31

That sounds not too bad actually Baz.

Take it that's minus replacement parts if required?

Sorry but you've thrown me with the 'rocker cover gasket' comment??

I had all the gaskets/seals replaced on mine but this is more when the box is broken down and is the main casing joint gaskets. Is the rocker cover gasket not for the engine?

Slightly confused 

Rob

1990 E3o 325i Touring and she's definately a she! Pain in the ass sometimes but goes like a bunny :oD
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 11:15
A freind of mine has a 94 320. He started exp notchiness when cold in first and second. After 6 months it got worse and he ended up having to get the box rebuilt.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 11:09

Rob,

£380 from Morrison in Kirkcaldy, Main Dealer with rocker cover gaskets changed if need be. Looks like thats as cheap as I'll get it from a main dealer. That is with BMWCC discount!

Baz



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 10:58

Remember that even though the oil is 'clean' it all comes down to viscosity. Mineral oil ( + even synthetic) tends to break down/ gum up over time so even though it looks clean it may not be doing the job it needs to .

To change the oil it is relatively straightforward.

2 ways to do it, warm the car up for say 10 mins to bring the box oil up to temp, raise the front of the car as high as you can and loosen the centre prop bearing this should allow the prop to be drawn out the tail shaft of the box, the oil should then 'leak' out from there, you may need to gently jack the front of the engine to help gravity. The other option is to use the filler hole and use a plastic bottle with 2 rubber hoses and a good pair of lungs to 'suck' the oil out of the box. Remember to make sure the shaft end of the prop is very clean and slides in straight to avoid killing the tail shaft seal if you take the prop out.

Sailorbaz, it cost me about £300 + parts but that was through the pal act, a specialist would probably take more.

Dbandery, I had the same whining from 2nd and I had to replace 2nd gear, bearings, shims and the syncros. All down to wear unfortunately!!

As a foot note, don't forget the diff, this needs done as often as the box especialy if you have a LSD

Rob

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2003 at 01:47

check your oil... i have no problem with mine at all and mines an '86.... mine has had regular oil changes all round though as far as the 1st 12 years went. checked the oil when i got it an it was crystal clear..... the only problem i have is that its a bit whiney in 4th and 5th between 2and 2.5 k rpm..

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-December-2003 at 23:41

Paul,

How easy is it to change the gearbox oil? Do you need a ramp? Cheers in advance. I've only 1 service light left so might wait until service, inspection 1.

Baz



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-December-2003 at 23:05
Sounds to me like the gearbox oil has not been changed for some time. I would get the gearbox oil flushed and changed at the next service. If the car is stiff to go into gear, don't rush it and ease it in slowly untill it is warm.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-December-2003 at 22:50

Yes, I have a 318Ti which is a bit tight to get in to first on a morning. I think the oil is due for a change which I have planned for this weekend, weather permitting. I will let you know if there is any difference.

Can anybody recommend oil for the box and diff?

Cheers Paul

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-December-2003 at 22:03

Does anyone have this problem with E36's? Same-same, tight into 1st, 2nd and Reverse when cold but gets fine when warm.

How much does it cost to have a gearbox re-built?



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