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    Posted: 06-September-2006 at 16:25

Hi Guys

Is it possible to adjust the air/fuel mix on the E30 M3 or is this only possible via mapping ?

 I suspect mine to be running a bit rich looking at the exhuast

Any advice appreciated

TIA

Andy


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-September-2006 at 17:04

You can adjust it by taking the lid off the AFM and then turning the black cogged dial. BUT, I would advise this to be done by someone who knows what they are doing and ideally on a dyno as you COULD be running lean and not rich - has very similar symptoms.

If you just wanted to adjust the Idle CO mixture then this can be done by adjusting the allan key screw on the AFM.

Hope this helps

EDIT! Oh, there is also a small screw inside the ECU which can adjust the fueling and ignition by various values. This is behing a blanking plug on the ECU's cover.

There is something somewhere which tells you which position is what on setting the pot in the ECU, but I am unable to find it now.



Edited by SHEPSM3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stevesingo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-September-2006 at 20:08
Yep, Shep is correct. There is a fuel quality switch on the back of the ECU and tthis may have been messed with.

More info HERE

Like the link says, fully to the left is the factory setting.

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 215DMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 14:24
First of all I would say if you have a standard car DONT mess with anything,
you 'might' blow you engine !
Something is faulty such as a temp sensor or AFM.


BEWARE: the info you posted Steve on the link to the iigomotive site about
the ECU switch is WRONG.

I have a copy of the BMW info on this and its very different !!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 14:43

Originally posted by 215DMX 215DMX wrote:

First of all I would say if you have a standard car DONT mess with anything,
you 'might' blow you engine !
Something is faulty such as a temp sensor or AFM.

Quite right Dave, this is why I suggested it to be looked at on a dyno and have someone do it who knows what is what. It can be done, but even I wouldn't attempt it unless I had it hooked up to a A/F ratio meter and sat in my rollers.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 14:53

Originally posted by andyclient andyclient wrote:

I suspect mine to be running a bit rich looking at the exhuast

Sorry, just noticed this from re-reading it. You can't tell how a car is running from the exhaust, unless its chucking out grey, black, white or blue smoke. If you are refering to the "nice grey" colour inside your tailpipes because of a "nicely tuned engine" especially after a nice long motorway run, you won't achieve this unless you run with genuine LEADED 4 star, as it seems to be the lead in the petrol which makes this happen.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyclient Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 15:05
Originally posted by SHEPSM3 SHEPSM3 wrote:

Originally posted by andyclient andyclient wrote:

I suspect mine to be running a bit rich looking at the exhuast

Sorry, just noticed this from re-reading it. You can't tell how a car is running from the exhaust, unless its chucking out grey, black, white or blue smoke. If you are refering to the "nice grey" colour inside your tailpipes because of a "nicely tuned engine" especially after a nice long motorway run, you won't achieve this unless you run with genuine LEADED 4 star, as it seems to be the lead in the petrol which makes this happen.

well that was it really the tailpipes were a bit sooty (hadn't noticed them being like that before ) Its probably just it hasn't had a good clear out for a few miles , the last couple of weeks has been mainly short journeys around town i suppose.

I guess i'm probably worrying needlessly , just after a bit of reassurance really.

If i put it on a CO meter that would tell me if the mixture was ok at idle wouldn't it ?

cheers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 15:13

Yes Andy, a CO meter will give you the readings you need for idle speed. Also look at the HC...anything around the 200ppm mark is great, 500 and below good, above that I would suspect something wrong. CO I think should be 1% + or - 0.5%, I could be wrong on this? I usually like to set the idle mixture with the HC in mind. Basically I go for as low a HC reading as I can, usually this is around the 2.5 - 3% CO mark which is still MOT standard to your car. At least this way you know the fuel is not being wasted.

HTH

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 15:15

Also, that is just on IDLE! to get the most from the A/F throughout the range the car will need re-mapping.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyclient Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 15:23
Originally posted by SHEPSM3 SHEPSM3 wrote:

Yes Andy, a CO meter will give you the readings you need for idle speed. Also look at the HC...anything around the 200ppm mark is great, 500 and below good, above that I would suspect something wrong. CO I think should be 1% + or - 0.5%, I could be wrong on this? I usually like to set the idle mixture with the HC in mind. Basically I go for as low a HC reading as I can, usually this is around the 2.5 - 3% CO mark which is still MOT standard to your car. At least this way you know the fuel is not being wasted.

HTH

Thanks for that i will get that checked out

Cheers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote UweM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 18:23
Originally posted by SHEPSM3 SHEPSM3 wrote:

You can adjust it by taking the lid off the AFM and then turning the black cogged dial. BUT, I would advise this to be done by someone who knows what they are doing and ideally on a dyno as you COULD be running lean and not rich - has very similar symptoms.


If you just wanted to adjust the Idle CO mixture then this can be done by adjusting the allan key screw on the AFM.


Hope this helps


EDIT! Oh, there is also a small screw inside the ECU which can adjust the fueling and ignition by various values. This is behing a blanking plug on the ECU's cover.


There is something somewhere which tells you which position is what on setting the pot in the ECU, but I am unable to find it now.



No offence dude, but I can't second both of you suggestions. Leave it alone.
The fiddling with the spring can cause all sorts of problems. It might work in one area of driving but mess another completly up. Most off the time people try to compensate for a worn spring when doing this, not to tune the car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stevesingo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 19:40
Originally posted by 215DMX 215DMX wrote:

BEWARE: the info you posted Steve on the link to the iigomotive site about
the ECU switch is WRONG.

I have a copy of the BMW info on this and its very different !!!!


Oh, Sorry Andy

Dave, will you be posting the correct info? For the sake of interest.

Steve


Edited by stevesingo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-September-2006 at 23:13

Originally posted by UweM3 UweM3 wrote:

No offence dude, but I can't second both of you suggestions. Leave it alone.
The fiddling with the spring can cause all sorts of problems. It might work in one area of driving but mess another completly up. Most off the time people try to compensate for a worn spring when doing this, not to tune the car.

No offence taken Uwe   Andy asked if the fueling can be altered and that is how it can be done without re-mapping. It does work, if you know what you are doing and looking for while doing it. Over the six years of dyno tuning cars, I have done many, many adjustments like this. 99 out of 100 work fine with improvements everywhere. The odd 1 or 2 don't however and a new AFM is required if faulty. It is also a well known adjustment to many Digifant Golf GTi and Peugeot 205/309 GTi tuning tweak.

If you don't know what you are doing with it then LEAVE ALONE.

Admittedly the adjustment isn't an ideal solution and may mask another problem with the management system. In hindsight it was silly of me to suggest it I guess? Not everyone has the right equipment which is available to me.  So I'll be more carefull with what I suggest in future with topics like this.

I would also not recommend reconditioned units such as the ones sold by Euro car parts, insist on a new one as they do these too I believe, or buy one from a Bosch dealer. We only fit new units now and not re-con.

In Andy's case, I am pretty sure there is nothing wrong with the car, but I would recommend getting the system checked over, and on a dyno if possible.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyclient Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-September-2006 at 11:17
Originally posted by SHEPSM3 SHEPSM3 wrote:

In Andy's case, I am pretty sure there is nothing wrong with the car, but I would recommend getting the system checked over, and on a dyno if possible.

Is there anyone you can recommend in the Suffolk area ?

many thanks

Andy


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevs635csi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-September-2006 at 20:07
probably a faulty O2 sensor (if one fitted) mine got on runs like a pig for the first miute cold & lw speed jerking too at all temps disconnected the O2 sesor drove around at all speeds & temps & its great ,just gotta get a new sensor & get the old one out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 215DMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2006 at 11:43
USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR RISK.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyclient Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2006 at 10:12

Originally posted by kevs635csi kevs635csi wrote:

probably a faulty O2 sensor (if one fitted) mine got on runs like a pig for the first miute cold & lw speed jerking too at all temps disconnected the O2 sesor drove around at all speeds & temps & its great ,just gotta get a new sensor & get the old one out

Haven't got one of those fitted but mine is a bit like that from cold for the first minute , but then seems a bit lumpy when cold thats another reason why i thought it may be a bit rich .

Think i will get the co checked at idle first and go from there , still looking for a reasonably close and recommended Dyno operator in Suffolk or possibly Essex if anyone knows of one ?

cheers for all your help so far

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2006 at 13:03

I am sure there are lots of Dyno operators around your area Andy, but I have no idea where they are, or if they are any good.

Sorry for my ignorance, but have you already changed the coolant temp sensor for the ECU? This is in the aluminium pipe above the exhaust manifold. There are two, the blue one is the one which affects the running of the engine and the mixture so is the one to check/change. The brown one sends the signal to the temp gauge on the instrument pack.

If the resistance is greater than it should be, the sensor will send the wrong signal to the ECU, thinking the engine is colder than it actually is. The ECU will then obviously be sending the wrong signals to the injectors - rich mixture.

Just thought of another, check that the vac pip which goes to the fuel pressure regulator is ok and not leaking in air. If it is, you will have more fuel pressure than is needed and obviously more fuel.

Good luck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyclient Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-September-2006 at 15:59

Coolant sensor reads 1359 ohms from cold and 225 ohms when hot , don't really know if this is good or bad ?

the small vacuum pipe looks ok but the larger pipe that it connects into looks a bit cracked , so could be a good idea to replace that for starters


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHEPSM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-September-2006 at 17:00

Andy, not sure what you should see for the sensor readings, but they sound not bad from other's I have tested (BOSCH)

The other pipe connected to the FPR contains fuel, so be carefull when replacing them. (Or should I say get a professional to do it? )

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