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alarustic View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: E36 coolant leak - common failures?
    Posted: 21-March-2006 at 09:13
I'm losing coolant for my car, which is a '96 328i with dual CC and air-con.

The leak looks to be from either the pipe at the bottom of the expansion tank (the 1/2" one) or from what i think is the coolant level sensor which is immediately underneath that pipe.

Are either of these normally problematic? What's the best way to find the leak other than stripping it right down and taking the radiator out?

Any advice/tips appreciated.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 09:17

If the water level is high then water will come out a hose down side of filler

 

If its leaking could be a pipe or build of of pressure (Water pump,Head Gasket)

There is endless things it could be

I say get it checked by dealer

Mine turned out to be Radiator when i had a leak in my 323

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 09:54
Moving to 3 Series Technical...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 15:38
Sorry I must've posted this in the Scottish Forum by mistake!

Originally posted by Pete330 Pete330 wrote:

If its leaking could be a pipe or build of of pressure (Water pump,Head Gasket)

There is endless things it could be

How is the list endless when I know where the leak is located?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-March-2006 at 16:32

if u put too much water in the pressure becomes so much any weak spots give way put some dye in see were it runs out silly u may say but it will show u more clearly how many leaks u have might not be the right way,but the cheapest/ dont use rad weld as its usless

good luck dazz

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-March-2006 at 17:36

I gotta say Rad-weld does work, I had a leak on the bottom of the radiator and it did a bonza job sealing it. Maybe I'm just a lucky one!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-March-2006 at 03:36

In South Africa we don't have radweld, but we do have something called Wynn's Rad Stop Leak. I had a leak somewhere in my cooling system that was causing the entire coolant resevoir to be emptied every 2 days - pretty big leak I thought, but could I find it??? Finally decided to put a bottle of this Wynn's stuff in and she has not lost a drop now for about 2 months. Wherever the leak was, it is now blocked. Did not notice and change in running temp or engine noise or anything. I must say that as long as your coolant is not pouring out, radiator additives to stop leaks seem to work?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-March-2006 at 16:37
from my ex with radweld it may fix a very small problem in the rad as it solidifies with the heat but if it is a big leak it wont last after all radweld is only a temp measure or so they say.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-March-2006 at 04:46
I dont understand,? Why not get it pressure tested it aint going to cost much and it takes all the guess work away
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-March-2006 at 06:35
Tell me more about pressure testing!

Is that where they fix a 'pump' onto the top of the expansion tank and then 'pump it'? This thens shoes exactly where the leak is located?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2006 at 15:28

it does exactly that. it simulates the pressure in the system so leaks can be found. before you use any of these rad additives bare in mind they will block any small water ways creating more problems later on.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2006 at 08:47

I'll bet it's the rad at the base of the expansion tank.  Same thing happened to mine and because of it's position I assumed the expansion tank seal had failed.  The E36 radiators are known to be poor quality so save yourself the bother and get another one.  The dealer got me a new one with expansion tank and cap for £160 but ECP/GSF do them cheaper.

They don't last forever

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-March-2006 at 14:59
Originally posted by Chas C Chas C wrote:

I'll bet it's the rad at the base of the expansion tank.  Same thing happened to mine and because of it's position I assumed the expansion tank seal had failed.  The E36 radiators are known to be poor quality so save yourself the bother and get another one.  The dealer got me a new one with expansion tank and cap for £160 but ECP/GSF do them cheaper.

They don't last forever

Today I replaced the rad. on my '98 e36 318i. Delivered to my door by a rad. specialist, it cost £115 and is a "Nissens" which is, I believe, what GSF/Euro supply, only cheaper (genuine part is £217 from local dealer).

The rad. specialist tells me the Nissens is better quality than the original, but he would say that, wouldn't he?

Can anyone advise on the best way to bleed the system? I have an air-lock as the heater does not get warm since I replaced the rad.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-March-2006 at 05:43

hi i belive you run the engine to operating temp with the heater on full with fan running then slowly undo bleed screw watching for bubbles. you may need the revs up a little ie not on tick over.when no more bubbles do it back up again. it is a pain getting rid of air locks they are renowned for it. only thing bmw got wrong with design.    

 I am sure others will advise.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-April-2006 at 06:21
to bleed your system iirc turn the temp up to max and fan speed to just above zero this runs the aux water pump for the CC undo both bleed screws and top up coolant slowly untill coolant can be seen from the bleed screws (can be a pain but be pateint and make sure its air free)good luck with it HTH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-April-2006 at 18:23
Originally posted by red devil red devil wrote:

Delivered to my door by a rad. specialist, it cost £115 and is a "Nissens" which is...


Was this price for a brand new rad.?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2006 at 17:10

Originally posted by alarustic alarustic wrote:

Originally posted by red devil red devil wrote:

Delivered to my door by a rad. specialist, it cost £115 and is a "Nissens" which is...


Was this price for a brand new rad.?

Yes, brand new, not recon. or exchange. As I said, it is a "Nissens", same as supplied (I believe) by Euro and GSF, but cheaper. Based in Milton Keynes and delivered to me, free of charge, in Oxford. I'm sure they do mail order if you are further afield. They can also fit, if you are not that way inclined, but it is simple to replace.

Sorry for the delay, they are called Dial-a-Rad, by the way.

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