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Forum Locked89 M30 3.5 valve adjustment!!!!!!!!

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UKDaveJ View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 89 M30 3.5 valve adjustment!!!!!!!!
    Posted: 12-February-2006 at 16:31
Looking for some help here guys, please! All tips appreciated, never done this on a Beemer before.....

I havn't had a very satisfying day in terms of getting stuff done, what with running Chris around to band practice etc!!

The plan was do the tappets on my Highline (3.5 M30), dang these are fiddly little feckers - I've done the equivalent of the whole engine just on the first 2 cylinders with the amount of times I've adjusted/set them........., those pesky eccentrics just want to re-adjust themselves (even using a small allen key to 'hold it) whilst tightening the lock-nut!!

Either the bloody 12 thou feeler is pinched, or seemingly enough room to drive a bus through!! Aarrghh!!!
Someone must have some tips on this one??!!
I've only got a few hours here & there this week....., car has to be ready for Friday night at the latest, rolling road session Saturday morning....!

Have made myself up a nice little ram air induction system - pics later in the week when I can actually fit it..., I think quite a cunning design & cheap as chips. However, back to topic!

But doing the valve adjustment is really essential IMHO, the tappets do seem a little out, (cold engine) 14.5 thou seems quite common, but trying to get 12 thou without either dragging the gauge or loose as the proverbial is a pita, almost as much as being able to slide a feeler gauge in, especially using small extra 'fingers' (like 1.5 thou with the 12thou gauge is very awkward).

I have read numerous valve adjustment 'guides' on the net but they make it sound so damn easy....., but I'm still struggling. For example, just being able to be sure that both cam lobes on the relevant cylinder are equally pointing downward is in itself quite fiddly.

One comment I read said; "
tappets, about an hour, as i have my own way of doing them. Get the cam lobe dead opposite the rocker, then adjust.....quiet as a mouse.
same setup as m30......"
I've tried this, but trying to see if the cam lobe is actually 'dead' opposite is tricky, its now underneath the cam & not in view......, I'm not sure how exact this has to be - for example, how much of the cam opposite the lobe is the same diameter for example??

I'm turning the engine over via the fan nut, having tightened the alternator belt, obviously having removed the plugs...


Edited by UKDaveJ
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UKDaveJ View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2006 at 17:33
Anybody?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2006 at 17:41

This sounds like you need three pairs of hands to hold everything together, Dave.

I'll see if I can get hold of Carlos one evening this week and ask him how he does it. He's done mine, and his own car is an E34 535i, which he knows backwards....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2006 at 17:49
Thanks Ivan.

roofer uses a wire from his starter, but I can't do that, no room in the garage really to get underneath & do that, so I'll have to make do with turning the engine via the fan nut which, incidentally, prior to tightening the fan belt, came undone as i was turning the engine over (with plugs out) - might be a tip in there for those that can't get their viscous fan coupling nut undone......

roofer also goes thru from 1 to 12 on the adjustments....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2006 at 17:58

Originally posted by UKDaveJ UKDaveJ wrote:

.....no room in the garage really to get underneath & do that....

There's no room in the garage once the car's in there! Then again, you wouldn't want to be doing it outside in the cold!


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2006 at 18:10
LOL!

Need to borrow/buy a 32mm open ended spanner, my adjustable is a bit of a fiddle getting it onto the fan nut.......

I'm sure once I've done/finished this job it'll seem a doddle next time around......, I HOPE!!


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2006 at 18:16
's alright, Dave. If it all goes pear-shaped, I'm sure Ben'll lend you his car to take to Aylesbury

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2006 at 18:26
Lol!

My bro in law, Craig, is bringing his Highline as well.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2006 at 06:05

Adjusting valves is not easy as i usually read in DIY guides...

I did valve job on my car 2 years ago....I checked clearance 3 times for each valve , and there was still some valve needing a supplementary check....

At 4th attempt every valve semed to do the same noise , qith 12thou(0,30) of clearance.....

After i discovered that i have to turn camshaft in the right point for a good job(cam lobes must be exactly 180 degrees beside the point You have to check that clearance, not 170° , not 190°....Or You will never end this job....)...I used to move the car forward  in 3rd gear , without spark plugs in place ...2nd gear is too much fast for a perfectly cam positioning...ifYou have a box like a "tunnel" , the job is easier(my garage is 12 metres long)...otherwise lift one rear wheel and move it with your hands...Sorry it's the only suggestion I can give You...

Francesco from italy



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2006 at 06:37

When i had mine done last Munich Legends did it. The car was quite a bit noiseier when they had finished. There view on them was to run the M30 with a fairly wide gap. A wide gap is a safe gap. They told me that over time they often tighten up and this increases potential wear on the internals and reduces power. Car never ran better after the work. They also said they have to do the work on a stone cold engine.

Personally i have no knowledge whatsoever on this, and this is all the advice i can offer.

James

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2006 at 07:02
Thanks guys!

As long as the gaps are at 12 thou alround I'll leave alone, but have found some that were up at 14.5 thou.

Sisco, I'm turning the engine via the fan nut, auto box in N, plugs out.

Cheers

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2006 at 08:05
Originally posted by Sohlman Sohlman wrote:

There view on them was to run the M30 with a fairly wide gap. A wide gap is a safe gap. They told me that over time they often tighten up and this increases potential wear on the internals and reduces power.



I've been told this too as I thought my valves were getting a bit "loose".

Too tight a clearance burns out the valve seat.
AndyS
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2006 at 08:42
Thanks Andy.

I rang Munich legends who were about as helpful as your typical receptionist.......

So I'm not sure whether to set to 12 thou now or leave them at about 14.5 thou, as many of them seem to be at this setting.......

Not sure what the risks are to the engine of having them too loose - I understand that too tight is also not good......

Decisions, decisions.....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2006 at 09:54

My friend , who rarely use his 635 ,did them at 15thou ... it seems that it's a good cleaance for better idle quality and he prevent that combustion deposits go away ,lowering the clearance...

I never thought about turning the cam with 32mm fan bolt....Good idea...

Francesco

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2006 at 10:46
I spoke with my specialist who suggested that with my mileage (200k) that I should set it at 13thou, but if in doubt, LEAVE as is........
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