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Drew540i View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2005 at 15:39
Hmmmm............

I had a problem recently with a 1992 520i - okay so
it's rather more modern than an old E24, but......
Basically, it would not start. No power to the ECU
even though the ECU was fine. Turns out that the
E32 and E34 have a fusible link in the battery plus
cable that powers up the engine managment loom.
And it blows.

My money would be on removing all the underdash
trim and the lower cowling from the steering column
and inspecting all the wiring from the ignition barrel.
If it's had an immobiliser, chances are some Dick
used a Scotchlok (the mark of a bodger) to connect
up an immobiliser or alarm. It's such a common
problem on old cars.

The DME relay also affects the fuel pump. Are the
plugs wet with fuel? Even if the fuel rail is primed
and the pump working, the injectors still need to be
opened. In short, is there fuel there and on the
plugs? If it's simply an ignition fault, they should stink
of petrol.

The coil needs 12 volts (battery voltage - about
12-13v) at terminal 15. Use a test light between
Terminal 15 and battery MINUS (ground). If there's
nothing there, run a fused wire between battery plus
and terminal 15. It should then run, and the problem
will be in the wiring between the coil and ignition
switch. Could even be the control unit for the OBC
which is ignition related for the OBC anti theft
function.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2005 at 16:11

My red ECU is fine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Peter (hiyyaboy) let me test it, which I am indebted for - thanks again mate. But this eliminates only one more thing.

-ben


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2005 at 17:29

Originally posted by Drew540i Drew540i wrote:

Hmmmm............

.....My money would be on removing all the underdash
trim and the lower cowling from the steering column
and inspecting all the wiring from the ignition barrel.
If it's had an immobiliser, chances are some Dick
used a Scotchlok (the mark of a bodger) to connect
up an immobiliser or alarm. It's such a common
problem on old cars.

You should've seen the spaghetti that Ben removed...... 

Quote The DME relay also affects the fuel pump. Are the
plugs wet with fuel? Even if the fuel rail is primed
and the pump working, the injectors still need to be
opened. In short, is there fuel there and on the
plugs? If it's simply an ignition fault, they should stink
of petrol.

No smell at all. 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2005 at 17:48

There is a stink of petrol, fuel is OK

Its like going 1 step forward and 2 steps back!


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2005 at 18:07
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

There is a stink of petrol, fuel is OK....

There wasn't when you tried to start it in front of me the other week!


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2005 at 18:15

There is definately a stink of fuel from the cylinders after its been turned over for a while


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2005 at 18:16
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

There is definately a stink of fuel from the cylinders after its been turned over for a while

 

OK so, the fuel has come through

One less glitch to worry about


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-October-2005 at 16:17

Car turns over again.... Battery was flat!!!

Its still in the same state as it has been for thye last 11 weeks,

Relays, fuel, fuses, sensors, ECU's all OK

I think Im looking for an earth fault, a dodgy connection or an unplugged wire somewhere, but its not going to be easy to find.

Peter gave me part number '65811373726' so im going to try that box out. Its something to do with the OBC and its a smallish black box under the glovebox, with the 2 green 4 wired plugs going in to it.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2005 at 10:10
So, you've tested the coil for a 12v supply then??

Until you do this, you're just wasting your time.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2005 at 10:18

Originally posted by Drew540i Drew540i wrote:

So, you've tested the coil for a 12v supply then??

Until you do this, you're just wasting your time.

seconded

if its defo an ignition problem and its a non-starter my money is on the LT supply side of the coil/ ECU/ whatever electrics the ignition system needs. I might also hedge my bets on a faulty king lead (ie the HT lead from the coil to the distributor)

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2005 at 17:48
Absolutely. If there is voltage at the coil, the thing to
try would be to pull the king lead out of the distributor
cap, stick a spark plug in the end, rest it on the
engine and see if it sparks. Also, Motronic systems
really do need a fully charged battery with a good 13
volts to spin the motor over AND give a spark. If it
gives a spark here but not at the plug leads, suspect
the rotor arm/cap.

But firstly, test terminal 15 (it's marked clearly) on
the coil for 12v. If there's nothing there, run a lead to
battery + to power it up. If it's a problem caused by
dodgy ignition/alarm wiring, it should start and run.
Make this the first thing you do tomorrow, after giving
the battery a good charge.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2005 at 17:59
no spark from king lead

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2005 at 18:26

ill test the coil and LT side of things tomorrow, and jump it from terminal 15 that was suggested. I take it that terminal 15 is in the fuse box then, or is it on the coil?


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2005 at 18:52

Can you start the car with the instrument cluster removed???

I did take it out a while back, and was wondering of a problem could lie there, and Im just thinking about it in advance in case the tests that everyone has suggested turn out negative.

Basically could there be one connection to the cluster thats somehow come adrift, that would cause a non-start???


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2005 at 06:26

OK tested some stuff...

Coil is dead, and not getting any voltage.

Fuse 15 in the fuse box has no voltage when connected to the battery.

Engine and the rest of the car has good earth.

Is fuse 15 definately the one that links through to the LT side of the ignition, because:

http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/etm102.htm

&

http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/etm102a.htm

suggests that fuse 15 is not used!

I want to be sure before I start looking.

so still no start, but I know that the coill is dead on the LT side



Edited by phb10186

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2005 at 07:03
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

OK tested some stuff...

Coil is dead, and not getting any voltage.

Fuse 15 in the fuse box has no voltage when connected to the battery.

Engine and the rest of the car has good earth.

Is fuse 15 definately the one that links through to the LT side of the ignition, because:

http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/etm102.htm

&

http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/etm102a.htm

suggests that fuse 15 is not used!

I want to be sure before I start looking.

so still no start, but I know that the coill is dead on the LT side

That diagram you're looking at was aimed at the US-spec 635s. Now, what does your authentic instruction book (which Dave swapped with you) say about fuse number 15???


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2005 at 07:14

ill check it out in a sec

 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2005 at 08:30

OK, some ammedments....

Seems as if the coil is getting 12 volts after all! No spark from king lead, but I have changed the king for another, and still no spark.

I must admit that I did check the distrubutor cap and rotor arm, and they seemed fine.

I have also taken the ignution swith out and cleaned it, and its the same as it was before. But if the car is turning over and there is 12 volts to the coil, but nothing after, it suggests an HT problem.

so ill have to check this out now i suppose, unless someone else has any other suggestions.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2005 at 08:45
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

.... it suggests an HT problem.

so ill have to check this out now i suppose, unless someone else has any other suggestions.

It would be highly amusing if you got the car running by the time I came round


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2005 at 09:09
Im feeling like a complete knacker here!!!!

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