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Jason e21 nut View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Project ’Weight Loss’ M3
    Posted: 20-October-2004 at 12:42
Hi

I can get double or single skin e30 bonnets they weigh less than 5 kilos and either use the orginial mounts or pins with the single skin.

they cost £450/550 plus vat and shipping

I also have contacts for fibre glass, carbon door cards and fiberglass wings/bumpers for the m3

Jason
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-September-2004 at 13:55

Originally posted by 215m3 215m3 wrote:

Bob

sent to a reply email. Looked good, bur was suprised the rear arms of the cage attached to the wheel arch and not the rear strut.

I take it you have stripped the innerds and had it sprayed. Started taking off the sound deadening yesterday. Not to difficult co come off.

I have found 2 small holes that water leaks into the footwells. I'll get the patch up temp.

Anyone

With the black car would it look stupid if the inside was painted white?

 

i sprayed the inside myself, and the outside, think about grey, blue or red, works cars were these colours, i chose white because its clean and the cars white my previous shell was white with a red inside

1987 Alpine E30 M3
1990 Alpine E30 M3 TRACK CAR
1988 E30 325 TOURING
1988 E30 325 CAB
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-September-2004 at 17:22
Originally posted by m3Cecotto m3Cecotto wrote:


You are a skinny wee b*****d anyway so, perhaps it's not going to be as effective for you, but worth considering??


:-)



Boyd

Dave's already stated i could lose 5 kg's...who's he kidding?
Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-September-2004 at 15:26

I used to run an MGBGT in the "Road Sports" class at Ingliston and others in the late 70s/early 80s.  Used to drive it to the track, do some lightening in the paddock, race it and assuming no bending occurred, refit the bits and drive it home, then to work on the Monday morning.

Removed were:- bumpers and irons, spare wheel, tools, rear seat etc. A couple of rolls 'n' sausage and a can of Irn Bru always fuelled the lightening process until a friendly competitor pointed out that my going on a diet would reduce the weight far more effectively than any of the lightening I did in the paddock!!!

You are a skinny wee b*****d anyway so, perhaps it's not going to be as effective for you, but worth considering??

:-)



Edited by m3Cecotto
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-September-2004 at 15:03
Bob

sent to a reply email. Looked good, bur was suprised the rear arms of the cage attached to the wheel arch and not the rear strut.

I take it you have stripped the innerds and had it sprayed. Started taking off the sound deadening yesterday. Not to difficult co come off.

I have found 2 small holes that water leaks into the footwells. I'll get the patch up temp.

Anyone

With the black car would it look stupid if the inside was painted white?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-September-2004 at 14:31
toby what did you think of the cage, ill emailed you a picture?
1987 Alpine E30 M3
1990 Alpine E30 M3 TRACK CAR
1988 E30 325 TOURING
1988 E30 325 CAB
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 18:54
Domo

2005 winter is plenty far enough away for me.

cheers for the advice
Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 18:05
If you concentrate on getting the weight down, which is mostly down to graft and not dosh, you won't need to spend big money on the engine, power to weight is the key. This should be the last thing you touch
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 15:22
Dave

I did receive the toys thanks. Jamie said he was going to email me, but hasn't as yet.

I'm looking at £2k budget ontop of the car, but this does not include any items sold from the car. I'll see how it goes. As i've said break suspension, seats, cage, poly bushes and replace any ball joints gear linkages.

It's my hobbie and am looking forward to progressing with it. Next year will mainly be getting the ride right. Then winter 2005 engine maybe, but that depends on funds.

Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 14:28
you dont need to spend big bucks to have fun, ive not done £4k yet, including the car, but i was lucky to find very light salvage for £2.5k
1987 Alpine E30 M3
1990 Alpine E30 M3 TRACK CAR
1988 E30 325 TOURING
1988 E30 325 CAB
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 13:44

 

Guys, Uwe has got it right on the nail. The whole Idea is to enjoy the car at a track day, not spend the whole day under the bonnet.

 

I learnt the lesson from my 2.0L eater, worst track day year since I have been doing them, just because I wanted something more radical than others. Cost me a fortune, 2 rebuilds and still did not make the power I was looking for, although it had all the bells and whistles.

 

I have now converted to the KISS approach, KEEP IT SAFE & SIMPLE = MORE FUN.

Toby, Jamie asked if you recieved your toys ok??

 

Dave

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 13:01
Originally posted by M3Nally M3Nally wrote:

Toby,

I was reading an article last night from Performance Car October 1988 about ProDrive and how they prep their touring cars based on the Evolution version (evo2).
I'll scan it and email if you haven't got it.

Even with the thinner glass and lighter boot lid of Evo2 they only just got their weight below 1000kg.

They did manage to get power up from circa 300 to 330bhp by using single-slide fuel injection. Perhaps someone on here can explain what that is.

They use a six speed box meaning you would be in the power band most of the time.

They used 9inch slicks, ultralight Sparco seat and Stack rev counter.

Power steering was removed.

16in wheel up front with 17in at the back.

Stronger rear trailing arms, 1000lb/in front springs, 675lb/in rears. 27mm front arb and 20mm rear. Adjustable of course with alternative leverage points for the arb's.

Cost of all that? Who knows, but I'd hate to think about the 6 speed box. I know a rally impreza box used to cost ProDrive £45k!

Good luck.

Kevin


sounds lie mucho ££££

flat slide thtottles are hard to find and mega £££.
Not worth the hassle to set them up for the DIY racer.
These few lines do just describe the tip of the ice berg for that car. There is some more involved to get beyond 330bhp than flat slides.
Guy's I think it is important to keep the feet on the ground! No offence against anyone, but what is to be achived here?
I nice track day car wich doesnt brake the bank with some good driving fun.
To me this must include a hassle free weekend/day with a
95% reliable car. No flat sliders, 6speed, powerband between 7000-9000 and so on.
Cars like the above just don't run with the annual oil change. There is serious work (or money) behind it.
So if you want to play with the rich boys, than beefing up just any old M3 is anyway the wrong approach

no offence jut my opinion. (less is sometimes more)
E61 520d, slow and buzzy but my wallet likes the mpg.....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 12:15
Good stuff guys all food for thought.

Kev can you email me a copy.

Toby
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 10:03
Toby,

I was reading an article last night from Performance Car October 1988 about ProDrive and how they prep their touring cars based on the Evolution version (evo2).
I'll scan it and email if you haven't got it.

Even with the thinner glass and lighter boot lid of Evo2 they only just got their weight below 1000kg.

They did manage to get power up from circa 300 to 330bhp by using single-slide fuel injection. Perhaps someone on here can explain what that is.

They use a six speed box meaning you would be in the power band most of the time.

They used 9inch slicks, ultralight Sparco seat and Stack rev counter.

Power steering was removed.

16in wheel up front with 17in at the back.

Stronger rear trailing arms, 1000lb/in front springs, 675lb/in rears. 27mm front arb and 20mm rear. Adjustable of course with alternative leverage points for the arb's.

Cost of all that? Who knows, but I'd hate to think about the 6 speed box. I know a rally impreza box used to cost ProDrive £45k!

Good luck.

Kevin
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 09:34
just my 5 bob's worth

lightening the car, a stiff chassis (as distinct from the suspension) and decent tyres are the three main areas to concentrate on for a sound basis for higher performance - eg adjustable suspension is a bit of a waste of money if the chassis flexes etc

get these right first and the brakes engine suspension etc are a lot easier

Tyres can wait till last but the stickier you go the lighter you'll want the car and a stronger chassis will be needed

lightening has so many benefits - it's not just power to weight ratio - a lighter car is much nicer to 'throw' into corners and the handling will always be more responsive

also lightening the car has the effect of stiffening the suspension so radical weight saving means you don't have to be so extreme on set up - wear on brakes and tyres will be better too

as for chassis remember to have cage welded in before any other welding to the seams - will help reduce distortion (being a touch anal here but that's how the race teams do it)

the extent to which chassis strengthening is really necessary for a non competition car is debatable save that it does contribute to body shell longevity - as i discoved last week end when it hit the tyre barriers hard at prescott (not in a bmw) - was amazed how localised the damage was after spending a decent amount of money on strengthening - helped the handling too
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 08:30
That was the point I was trying to make earlier. I am much more concerned about the on track performance than road performance, but if you are not racing then getting anal about every last ounce is not really worthwhile. I would definatley leave the headlining as I suspect it weighs dick all. Panel replacements are worthwhile as it's a non-destructive process so can be replaced if you want to sell the car, you could probably also sell the panels. Buying mag struts would cost a fortune but would probably make a significant difference as they weigh nothing against the stock setup.
I hope to do a sort of Club Sport job on my car soon, but leave it without the "stolen/recovered" look.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 06:22
Originally posted by Domo Domo wrote:

weld in a sheet of aluminium or similar



I am quite keen to see you doing this

Toby,
120kg already just by removing the "simple" bits?
Thats quite good IMO. Do you really want to remove the headliner? Car will look like stolen recovered.......

Edited by UweM3
E61 520d, slow and buzzy but my wallet likes the mpg.....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 04:34

To get the car close to 1000kg you'll have to

Rip out all of the inner frames of the doors,bumpers,wings etc, fit fibreglass boot & spoiler,bumpers and bonnet, lightweight seat and brackets, remove all underseal,sound deadening,lightweight wheels-I use Rimstock Pro Race 1's and there as light as can be, if you have a sunroof remove all the rails and weld in a sheet of aluminium or similar,remove all electrics that are not needed and fit a bag tank. All this should get you close

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 03:58

Toby,

The bumpers do weigh alot - but you can strip them down and with some work refit the outer covers without the heavy fibreglass beam.

Door cards - I would leave in, but maybe look at a base model 3 series as these might be lighter? Alos the manual window winders?

If you strip off the sound deadening material you might loose 10 to 20kg, but it's hard work and would need to be painted afterwords to stop rust - I'm sure as it's underneath, some brush-on paint like smoothrite or such would do.

Smaller battery, race seats, and as everyone else says- anything that's not needed.

I would definately keep the heater, but I'm sure with some thought you can loose some of the bits and bobs.

It easier to do when you have a bare shell as you can see what needs to go back in and what you can afford to bin.

Good luck!

Steve
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2004 at 03:57

 

Agree with Uwe,

 

Cross drilled disks belong on MAX power cars.

The aux tank is easy to remove, you just need to obtain a new filler pipe from a standard e30 3series and just join the pipes. Keep the sender from the aux tank and position it vertically so your fuel gauge will still work.

I will see you at the meet and may take the track car down.

 

Regards

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E30 M3 Track Car
S14 2.0L 2002 in progress
E30 C2 2.7 Alpina
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