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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-May-2005 at 19:34
Hi Red,

The content of the average diy recharge can is 12oz the green label under your bonnet will identify the refrigerant type and weight, around about 1500 grams if your system was empty of refrigerant, then you will have air in the system and in the charging hose, air is none condensible, and will result in poor cooling and elevated system pressures, it is important that refrigerant is charged in to a vacuum.

The condensers on E34s rot like crazy, look for an oily patch near where the pipes connect, or behind the body of the cooling fan motor.
Please do not be tempted to try ac system sealers, they dont work and gum everything up (Including my equipment) and is a devil to remove once in.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-May-2005 at 12:57

Thanks for that. I haven't tried any wacky additives and don't intend to, especially now after your advice!

So far all I've done is add around half the contents of a 12oz can, about 150 grams. It raised the pressure enough for the pressure switch to close and allow the compressor to start, but there was virtually no cooling.

When I came to add the rest of the can contents it must have seeped out of the charging hose when I left the can upstairs for a few hours cos the rest of the can was empty. Needless to say, I'm just awaiting delivery of a pack of 3 full 12oz cans.

I guess I've hardly added any refrigerant so far, so will add more when it arrives. It does seem to be holding the pressure as the compressor still starts ok after several days of no use.

I don't use it right now as a) it doesn't cool anyway, and b) I don;t want to cause damage running the system with low re-frigerant levels etc.

I can only use it when the car is moving at a reasonable speed anyway because the air-con main fan motor is seized solid and totally buggered-water got in and rusted the inside, causing one of the permanent magnets to bubble up with the rust and lock the motor armature solid.

I've just got hold of one on ebay for a whole lot less than a new one, and am just awaiting delivery. I understand the ssystem can overheat and pressures rise if the vehicle is stationary with the air-con on, and there is no cooling airflow through the condenser. I'll be using it only on the motorway until I get the fan sorted.

I don't know if the system was completely empty anyway, so all I can do for starters is to top it up myself before going to a garage and damaging the wallet!

I did notice an oily patch on the metal cooling fins of the main engine cooling system radiator and, as this sits right behind the condenser, I'm now wondering if there's a leak there. I imagine years of motorway cruising will have thrown stones at high speed right into the condenser matrix and holed it somewhere

I haven't had the car long, and have been doing a crash course on air-con in the last few weeks!

I can't tell whether the system was completely empty, but adding 150 grams did allow the compressor to start up, so there must have been some re-frigerant in there already.

I don't know if there's any air in the system and, if there was, how exactly do you remove it and charge the system into a vacuum?

My plan was to re-charge it myself and see if it holds pressure and works, as this is the most cost-effective start point. If it still leaked or didn't work, then the plan was to take it to an air-con specialist and work some overtime!

Thanks for your advice anyway, it was very useful as I never thought about air in the system

One more thing-I was told that when charging the system you look at the sight glass to see if there are any bubbles in the re-frigerant. I was told the sight glass was near where the hoses go into the bulkhead, but I can't seem to find any sight glass anywhere.

I've tried imagining I'm a molecule of re-frigerant (!), and following the progress from the compressor out into the condensor, then from the condensor into the receiver drier (thought the sight glass would be there like it was on old Ford Granada's etc), then folowed the pipe into the bulkhead. No sign of a sight glass anywhere!! Does it actually exist on this system or is it charged to a system pressure instead?

Alex

"I was just clearing out the cylinders, Officer"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-May-2005 at 17:56

Wow Alex, a crash course right enough!

You seem to be picking it up OK though.

I've got a 540 which seems to be a bit feeble in the airflow department as well. Must try cycling all the controls for 10 minuted to see it that free's things up.

I think the the auxilliary fan has 2 speeds, low speed is always on when the aircon is engaged and high speed when the water temp reaches some higher level. My 540 doesn't work on normal speed and I've only ever noticed it once on high speed, last summer about 30 seconds after leaving the car and I was still walking away when the fan came on, gave me quite a fright!

You've got me worried about high pressures and burst matrix's now that my fan doesn't work in "normal" speed, I'll be following this thread with interest , good luck!

 

Dave

'94 E34 540i
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-May-2005 at 18:22
If your auxilliary fan doesn't work on low speed but does on full speed the load resistor mounted to the fan frame has probably failed and needs replacing, they are only around £10 from your local dealer. If the resistor is OK the low speed relay (in the small box on the passenger side towards the front of the engine bay) is probably faulty.


Miles

Edited by e34m5

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2005 at 05:00
Before charging, the system must be evacuated using a vacuum pump. Applying a vacuum does two things, one is to remove air, which does not compress the same as refrigerant, so reduces cooling while at the same time increases internal pressures, forcing the compressor to work harder than it needs to and so burning extra fuel, this will also shorten the service life of the compressor. The second thing that the application of a vacuum does is to allow any residual moisture to boil off from the inside of the system, moisture can cause the lubricant to sludge, reacts with the refrigerant to form acid and in extreme situations can freeze at the expansion device causing intermittant cooling as the ice forms and then melts, but I have never encountered this problem as yet

Regarding high pressures, the pressure switch mounted in the reciever drier bottle (Under the washer bottle) will shut off the compressor if the pressures reach 350-400 psi or fall below around 30 psi.

Better than using the small cans, I guess that if you were really keen, you could buy the correct kit for the job, ie manifold gauges, scales, vacuum pump etc and do work for freinds and family.

If you want to learn more then why not drop in at www.autoacforum.com, they are a very freindly bunch.


Edited by 525IX
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2005 at 15:05

Thanks for all the detailed advice everyone Well, the story so far. I found the label under the bonnet-the system takes 1553 grams of R134a refrigerant.

The other small 340 gram cans arrived today, so I set about putting more R134a into the system. When all this milarky first started the compressor wouldn't even engage when selecting air-con when I tried it a little while back, as the system pressure was so low.

I put about 200 grams of R134a into the system last weekend and this time the compressor started but cooling was virtually non-existent, so I ordered more R134a, which arrived today.

Well, I started the engine with the whole air-con system cold, and started adding more R134a. After a little while the system warmed up and pressure in the charging pipe equalled pressure in the can, so the R134a stopped flowing.

What had happened was that the condenser was not being cooled, as the fan was seized solid and I'm still awaiting delivery of the replacement motor from an ebay seller, although I had completely removed the old fan and bracket.

When the whole system was stone cold this wasn't a problem, but after a short while the condenser warmed up and pressure built up in the charging line, stopping the R134a from flowing.

As I couldn't very well charge the system by driving fast to flow air over the condenser, I hit upon a novel way of cooling the condenser whilst the vehicle was stationary, and cleaning it of 10 years worth of dead flies and debris into the bargain.

I got the garden hose out and, with the jet nozzle attached, selected a slightly wide cold water spray pattern and proceeded to direct the spray pattern through the front kidney grilles and onto the condenser, and swept the water spray over the whole surface of the condenser.

Well, it worked!! R134a started flowing again and the system sprang into life-after a few more seconds operation ice-cold air was now being blown into the passenger compartment

I put in a full 340g can, so I have added myself around 500 grams to a depleted 1550 gram system, and it's now working fine. So the system wasn't empty thankfully, and seems to have lost around 1 third of it's capacity in 10 years, so it's not leaking, just weeping or seeping very slightly thankfully.

Anyway, it's holding pressure ok and I now use it only when moving at a reasonable forward speed until I get the new motor and fit it-hopefully this weekend. So a result! Thanks for all the advice guys-I'm ready to submit my Thesis on refrigeration now-ice cold drinks all round now I think

Alex (drives the coolest estate in town now-literally)

"I was just clearing out the cylinders, Officer"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2005 at 16:07

Well done Alex, your ingenuity does you proud!

Glad you got it working and good luck with the fan.

Miles, thanks for the advice on resistors, I'll have a look at the weekend.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2005 at 16:40
The resistor is number 6 in the following diagram : E34 AC Condenser/Additional Cooling fan

Edited by e34m5

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2005 at 16:45

I always have to formulate a cunning plan myself before admitting defeat and going to a garage

The fan & motor I bought is actually from a 1990 Ford Granada Scorpio, believe it or not-it's the same motor and fan!

I wouldn't get too hung up about overheating burst matrix's just because your fan only works on max chat.

What happens is that the condenser will heat up and the normal speed fan won't come on. So the condenser will heat up some more and then the fan will come on at full blast and you'll be ok.

If the system gets too hot, the system pressure rises and a switch in the receiver/drier will shut off the compressor as a safety mechanism if it gets way too high.

As Miles says, it's almost certainly the resistor-it does lead an exposed life there what with rain, wind, stones, hot and cold temperatures. It's probably burnt out or corroded internally.

I've also got an E34 540i-a 1993 model with replacement Alusil block engine and no toys whatsoever cos the first owner didn't get the SE model, so it's got no air con and soft leather seats which everyone sticks to on a hot day and people literally have to unpeel themselves from the seat.

Mind you, it's a good few kilos lighter than most 540i's cos it's only got electric windows, sunroof and trip computer and that's it on the gadget front-not another toy in sight-and it don't half shift when the angry pedal is toed as I've also done little things to improve the breathing on the intake system

If your air throughput is not great, as well as cycling all the controls, check the pollen filters as they can clog up. It's a pig to get at-you have to remove the lower dash trim panel in the drivers footwell by the pedals, then attempt to remove the green cover on the side of the heater box, then pull the filter out somehow-it's in 2 parts.

I managed it on the 525i but it wasn't funny cos I'm 6ft 2ins tall and nearly broke my neck and back twisting and contorting behind the pedals under the steering wheel to access the damn thing-why didn't they put the wretched thing somewhere easy to get at if its a regular maintenance item? And I thought the Krauts were a logical race!

For some warped reason I like sorting out problems and get huge satisfaction when something gets fixed without having to part with folding at a garage. I retrofitted a trip computer successfully to the 525i, even though I shredded my hands in the process fiddling about with my hands in the dash-think I need a good woman!

Yes, todays 'garden hose through the front grille' trick was a devious plan to fudge the system into working-the neighbours must have thought I was on something perched on the drive squirting high-pressure water into the kidney grilles-BMW ownership-it gets to you like that

Alex

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2005 at 17:02
The auxilliary fan will only run on high speed when the aircon is on and the engine starts to overheat so it's best to sort the low speed setting out so that you stay nice and cold when stuck in traffic jams

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-May-2005 at 20:00
Originally posted by RedOctober RedOctober wrote:

If your air throughput is not great, as well as cycling all the controls, check the pollen filters as they can clog up. It's a pig to get at-you have to remove the lower dash trim panel in the drivers footwell by the pedals, then attempt to remove the green cover on the side of the heater box, then pull the filter out somehow-it's in 2 parts.

I managed it on the 525i but it wasn't funny cos I'm 6ft 2ins tall and nearly broke my neck and back twisting and contorting behind the pedals under the steering wheel to access the damn thing-why didn't they put the wretched thing somewhere easy to get at if its a regular maintenance item? And I thought the Krauts were a logical race!

Alex

Changed the pollen filter last summer, the one that came out looked horrible. After the horror stories I had read about changing it I was pleased with how smoothly it went.

I also believe it's a much easier job on the left hand drive models, no pedals to get in the way. Just wasn't worth re-designing the system for our market I suppose.

Dave

'94 E34 540i
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-May-2005 at 15:55

Yeah it was still a pig to get out cos I'm tall and lanky and contorting myself in the footwell was not the greatest way to spend a spare hour

I know it's easier on Left-hand drive cars, but I found that Right-hand drive cars with auto gearboxes have the advantage of no clutch pedal to get in the way. Maybe those horror stories were from Right-hand drive cars with manual gearboxes.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-May-2005 at 16:46

Well, finally got a replacement fan motor. Believe it or not, it came from a 1990 Ford Granada Scorpio, as it's exactly the same motor! It cost considerably less than the £120 figure mentioned, so I'm quite pleased with it.

Found out now that the ballast resistor has gone open-circuit, so will have to get a new one. I did some measurements, and discovered that the fan draws a very large current-at 7 Volts it was drawing around 11 amps with the fan connected to the motor, and I estimate that at the full 12 Volts on high speed, it'll draw around 15 amps.

No wonder the poor old ballast resistor gives up the fight Well, the system will be completely sorted by the weekend when I refit the fan, as it's holding the pressure ok after the re-frigerant re-charge last weekend. I've spent around £90 to sort it all out completely, and it's taken a fair bit of time, but it's been a productive session and, after all the blood, toil, sweat and tears, I can now relax and cool off literally in air-conditioned balm-thanks for everyone's advice

Alex

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-May-2005 at 15:11

Well, the air-con is fully functional now. I re-fitted the fan at the weekend and re-charged the system fully. It now blows ice-cold and the fan works properly-all set for the long hot summer I'm sure we won't get

Alex

"I was just clearing out the cylinders, Officer"
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